In the aftermath of designer Virgil Ablohโs death last November, Louis Vuitton may well have become a house in creative freefall. Yet miraculously, the namesake leviathan of the LVMH flotilla marches onward; with presentations like the new Pre-Fall 2023 menswear collection existing as proof of concept of the former Menโs Artistic Directorโs energetic, implacable legacy.
In parallel to Kim Jonesโs latest pre-fall menswear showcase for Dior, Louis Vuitton has revealed a menswear collection that is similarly enamored with the mystic energies of sun and sand.
Entitled โThe Desert Raceโ, the new collection โ designed without a nominal artistic lead โ still beats with the unmistakable pulse of a Virgil Abloh joint, bringing together Louis Vuittonโs historic affinity for proto-European tailoring with the many cultural reference points that define the Maison in the 2020s.
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Leaning with literal abandon into the โraceโ part of the collectionโs title, the initial looks for Pre-Fall pivot around statement pieces lifted from the world of motorcross, rallying and pitstop style in general. Vulcanised sneakers, knee-high compression socks and leather jackets โ emblazoned, as if by scorching desert heat, with Ablohโs typically subversive logography โ make for a stirring first impression; before gradually ceding the way to vaguely technical jacketing that takes a hi-viz approach to the art of colour blocking.
The Louis Vuitton man is undoubtedly a creature of the 21st century โ at ease in the collectionโs many pieces inspired by motorsport and (as youโll glean if you look closely) DJ culture โ but that doesnโt mean that modish sartorial clothes donโt have a part to play.
As the collection progresses onto greener pastures, weโre treated to a glimpse of what the future holds for tailored dressing. Highlights include a plethora of short-and-shirt combos fashioned from identical fabrics and a number of sartorial pieces โ a cocaine-white two piece, textured in the houseโs iconic โMonogramโ print โ that speak to Louis Vuittonโs enduring fascination with the evolution of graphic codes.
Browse a selection of our favourite looks from the Pre-Fall 2023 menswear presentation below.
