When Audemars Piguet initially launched Code 11.59 three years ago โ the brandโs first legitimately original collection in some 20-plus years โ itโs fair to say that critical reception was less than stellar.
Following a few fits and starts, the avant-garde range is beginning to find its footing โ not least because it has so often been the basis for exceptional craftsmanship, encapsulated in works like Anita Porchetโs Grand Feu enameling or a whole generation of modular in-house movement (a la Calibre 2948).
Now, the famed makers of the Royal Oak are dipping into the company archive; with the release of a new Code 11.59 reference that features its historic and (until now) seldom seen โStar Wheelโ complication.
The novel expression of time-keeping โ first developed in the 16th century at Pope Alexander VIIโs behest โ was made for a decade-long interlude at Audemars Piguet, beginning in 1991. Yet even then, production numbers of the Ref. 25720, as it was then known, were painstakingly minimal (historians estimate no more than 30 pieces were made globally).
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The brandโs latest reincarnation marries the whimsy of the original complication with a contemporary design language and technology โ possibly the best possible combination for exploiting the Code 11.59โs architectural, axis-bending aesthetic.
The titular Star Wheel module is enclosed by an appropriately spacy aventurine dial: a detail thatโs given plenty of room to shine when contrasted against the watchโs gold-slash-ceramic case. The movement isnโt new, strictly speaking, but nevertheless derives from APโs latest generation of in-house calibres โ one thatโs topped with a beautiful rotor in 22-carat pink gold, skeletonised with the familiar cursive logo.
And, in spite of its whirling somewhat steampunk-esque look, the Star Wheel display is incredibly easy to read. Essentially APโs take on the classic โwandering hoursโ complication, wearers tell the time by reading one of the three discs in the dialโs centre in conjunction with the aperture between 10 and 2 oโclock. (In the press image above, the time displayed appears to be 10:23.)
An interesting move on APโs part, the new Star Wheel follows in the footsteps of other similar vintage-inspired launches in recent years, notably including the [Re]master01 that was based on one of the brandโs rarest mid-century chronographs.
Naturally, itโll be some years before Code 11.59 overtakes the Royal Oak collection to become the crucial revenue driver at AP, but a more diverse and interesting skew of product โ especially from a watchmaker with as rich a heritage โ is always a good thing.
