Moncler’s Secret Sauce
Moncler’s new HQ is a brutalist compound 10 minutes out of Milan’s sprawling city centre. With an internal forest, arch-eyebrowed receptionists, and puffy shoes on security guards, my first stop was to see the Studio Ascenti drop.
It’s the Italian brand’s newest range of shoes, from snow boots and chukkas to runners, and even ballet flats. Among the standouts were its prototype runner (carbon fibre rod included), and the Citytrek all-round sneaker. I put a pair through its paces over the next few days, and it lives up to its name gloriously.
Notably, however, were Moncler’s broad range of collabs. Clarks, Moon Boot, and Rick Owens all presented their own takes on the Moncler shoe – and each, surprisingly, held up. They weren’t broadly appealing, but no collab between two designers ever is. The sliver of a cross-section, nonetheless, shows up loyally, with each Rick shoe selling out within 2 minutes.
How do you keep the line with competing visions? When does a shoe stop being Moncler? The designers said it wasn’t in the shoe itself, but the choice of collaborator. “When you choose the right designer, they know it’s a relationship and a chance to let both brands shine.”
One takeaway? Moncler will be dipping into the run club space soon. I saw a few prototypes for a rocking running shoe – maybe less alpine trail, more almond flattie. Perfectly placed, then, within Australia’s booming scene.
Missoni Zigs Where They Zag
I quickly dropped into the Missoni showroom – the prosciutto sandwiches were, admittedly, a persuasive drawcard. What’s new for Missoni? Honestly, not much. This season they’re doubling down on the fine knit zigzags, the brand’s iconic design that’s been ever-present since the ‘60s. And, well, good for them. If it ain’t broke, it must be Italian.
Brunello Cucinelli Causes Global Shortage Of Cream Jackets
Ending the night in the fine company of the Brunello Cucinelli greenhouse, you’d be forgiven for rubbing your eyes in Disney-style wonderment. No one does classic menswear like Brunello Cucinelli, and no one dares try.
I white-knuckled my Aperol guardedly, as I was in a literal sea of white and cream jackets, sported by what I can only assume was the entire mature modelling community of Milan. In attendance were … just kidding.
As for the clothes: dapper double-breasted suits, Safari-like shirt/pant combos, and a pastel rainbow of stonewashed cableknits – one for each of your Lake Como villas.
Church’s On The Right Track
To be acquired by the Prada group is to be thrown a life preserver shaped as a hook. When Church’s was founded in 1873, each shoe was custom-made to the buyer. Shoes didn’t have names, and models were noted by sequential number.
After operating as a family business for over a century, Prada snatched up the Jermyn St mainstay for a tidy US$170 million (~AU$247 million). The results were subtle.
Upon acquisition, the Group reviewed every archival shoe, recreating models from as far back as the 1800s. Other rare models were sourced externally, from British grandads’ attics, estate sales, and mementoes of the Swinging Sixties. One such model, the Shanghai, was sourced directly from a Shanghaian gentleman who purchased the shoes in ‘64 – now available for $2,285 at Church’s.
Some new models ever so slightly push the envelope – a cream and brown check model was the most eye-catching – but the throughline is classic silhouettes and good Goodyears.
Prada You, Miuccia
This season’s hottest ticket was undoubtedly the Prada show, held within the Italian powerhouse’s Milan home, the Fondazione Prada.
The show opened with the Pac-Man credit music, then quickly transitioned to a discordant mix of Vivaldi and pumping techno, before closing to the Kill Bill soundtrack – a katana flick to any brand going all-in on oversized.
You can read my take on everything in between here.
Tod’s Exudes Old Milano
If you’ve never been to Villa Necchi Campiglio, you’ll surely have seen it; the mid-century mansion masterpiece is swathed in cubist marblework, lush velvet couches, Picassos hanging in the toilet, and a siren-song pool.
In the 38-degree heat, we’re chugging Aperols like Tantalus on a bad day. One feels bad for the models decked in head-to-toe suede, almost assuaged by the waiters passing around handfuls of blanched almonds.
Orlando Bloom dipped his head in, as did our own Shaun Birley. Both fought off paparazzi. Guests brought dogs and good attitudes, and despite the weather, the collection was very well received. If Brunello is old-style Italian dressing, Tod’s is the way forward. Slouchy suede shirts, folding house slippers, no-fuss weekenders, and an array of yellow-to-terracotta loafers – there truly is nothing better to don for a poolside Aperitivo.
Montblanc Has It In The Bag
The final standout of Milan Fashion Week was Montblanc’s showing – pens, leather goods, and watches all on display to a room of very hungry guests. The tell-tale Montblanc installation pieces were mis-ed in the scene, including a train cart, paper tree, and a holly jolly Christmas room.
Despite fanfare around a few of the rarer pens, the best of the bunch were the new shoulder bags. Having now done the leather briefcase in a few iterations, Montblanc has swivelled to a gaucho-style suede saddle bag, and slouchier tote-styles. It’s a very welcome pivot for the brand, and one that signals a newer kind of Montblanc owner.
Big On Balenciaga
Pierpaolo’s slowly stepping into the triple-layered sneakers Demna left behind, and the latest menswear collection is a slow move toward a new direction.
Among the new mix of active and formalwear from Balenciaga, my picks are the slippers and leather jackets. The brand also hosted a juice bar pop-up, which had brilliant foresight for the 40-degree weather.
Louis Vuitton Rides The Wave
I’m sure you’ve seen the surf-inspired Louis Vuitton set for their SS27 collection by now – models emerged from a curling barrel in suits, hoodies, and wetsuits, carrying trunks, surfboards, bicycles, and anything else the new Men's Creative Director Pharrell could conjure up. It’s a firm step towards casualising the luxury label, yet up-close details maintain that the garments are no less luxurious.
Apart from the standout accessories (shell-shaped bags, smaller Speedys, pearl inlay trunks, and surfboards), there were a range of cool jackets (military, patchwork, and blazers) that are sure to show up in the pages of your favourite mag soon. An interesting pivot for the brand.
Acne Studios Clocks In
The latest Acne collection is a take on officewear (as Acne as officewear could be).
Pink suits, scribbled tees, and Camero backpacks aside, we’re seeing the same trend towards slim: skinnier jeans and pointier boots. Anyone buying Acne a year ago may have trouble adjusting to this new Ozempi-fied vision, but the staples are still present: graphic tees, chore jackets, and funky eyewear.
The strongest offering by far was the updated colour range of the Camero bags– with fringe, in patchwork, in red, green, and grey: they clearly paid attention to how viral the bag has gotten.
The brand also launched the latest Acne Paper (its art periodical) in the Jardin du Palais Royal– waiters in Horse heads and funhouse mirrors gave the whole event the surreal touch Acne does so well.
Dior Hosts Afters
While Prada’s vision for the future is utilitarian, and Louis’ is informal, Dior’s is romantic optimism.
Set to the sounds of Fred Again (again), the show followed 66 models pacing around the gardens of the Musée Nissim de Camondo. Up-close details were exquisite. Pleated silk houndstooth, see-through jackets, and pyjama shirts all spoke to the poetry of a good kick-ons.
Tell-tale Anderson details were also present: beaded flower pins, embroidered derbies, oval-shaped duffels, and animal charms still remained a key motif. While potentially not the most wearable collection fresh out of the box, it was a real bar-raiser for craftsmanship and cohesiveness of a collection. The mixed plaid shirts will sell out.
Activewear Highlights: District Vision And Adidas Stan Smiths
Men’s FW is also host to some of the sportier streetwear brands – two worth highlighting are District Vision and Adidas.
District Vision is chasing the title of ultimate performancewear, making ultralight running tops with high UV protection, in-built sunglasses holders, and sweat-wicking like no other.
This is all in partnership with the terrifying Badwater Ultra run through Death Valley every summer. In addition, they’ve expanded into some more casual streetwear, with fleeces, knits, bucket hats, and graphic tees. Sunnies remain the strongest offering, with shield and rimless styles both going strong. Sure to be a hit at any time of day or night.
This year is also the push for the very French Adidas Stan Smith, which had us all seeing green. I got a preview of its archives and future projects for the humble tennis shoe, hosted in a gallery-fied Paris townhouse.
As they only work within the bounds of green and white, the design team is pushing prototypes to take it to every logical conclusion. Stringray leather, performance fabric, five-toes, ballet flats, woven leather – there’s a lot in store for us over the next few years.
The space also had art installations, including a white room (later spray-painted by Yung Lean), and a great collection of green household items, which guests were invited to pick through and take home a memento. I wonder who took the door.
The Aussie Contingent: Commas And Five by Flynn
It’s always nice to see Aussie brands hitting big in Fashion Week. This year I popped by the Five by Flynn pop-up at trendy Cortado cafe, and the Commas showroom. The Flynn pop-up was decidedly packed, as patrons rushed to get the custom Cortado x FbF cap over their iced latte.
The Commas showroom was deliciously air-conditioned, showcasing their latest collection we saw back at Australian Fashion Week months prior. Good job to both brands, I say. How good!
