The Unmatched Depth (And Prices) Of High-End Natural Fragrances

Editor’s Note: This story originally appeared in Volume III of B.H. Magazine. For access to future issues, subscribe here.

How much are you willing to pay to smell good?

Those of a more philosophical bent might reply by asking: “Define good.” But perhaps US$1.5 million will suffice for those who occupy a more rarefied financial stratosphere.

In 2018, French fragrance house Morreale Paris launched, what they claimed to be, the world’s most expensive perfume. Part of their bespoke Le Monde sur Mesure line, each fragrance takes around six months to create and is entirely unique.

A team led by master perfumer JP Morreale translates the “essence” of their client into a bottle, distilling memories, emotions, and aspirations into a singular olfactory identity. The bottle boasts equal extravagance, adorned with precious stones, engraved with a serial number, and presented as if it belongs in a museum.

Delivery? Only by private jet, complete with a security detail to match.

Modern perfumery, however, is rarely composed entirely of raw materials. Rising costs and regulations by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) mean most fragrances blend naturals with synthetics. While synthetics ensure stability and consistency, they often lack the depth and complexity of natural ingredients like rose, orris root, jasmine, oud, and ambergris (a byproduct coughed up from the stomach of sperm whales), which form the backbone of luxury perfumery.

Take rose, for instance. Rose oil requires tens of thousands of petals hand-harvested at dawn to yield mere millilitres. Middle East-based Spirit of Dubai highlights this in Narjesi ($1,800), a rose-centric fragrance that layers Bulgarian, Taif, and Turkish rose with leather, incense, and patchouli, evoking a plush, photorealistic rose garden.

If you need your rose with a little more muscle under all that plushness, Matiere Premiere’s Radical Rose Extrait ($599) boasts the highest concentration of rose centifolia while offering a truly unisex take on this floral note, which is far too often (mistakenly) considered “feminine.”

Russian Adam of Areej Le Doré has built a cult following for his use of traditional, raw, and rare materials long redacted from contemporary perfumery. Think real ambergris, and deer musk sourced from his native Russia. “Sourcing deer musk is only legal in certain regions, like the Russian Federation,” Adam tells B.H. from his current home in Thailand.

The 38-year-old explains that, while he’s aware of the mild controversy surrounding animal products in perfumery, his process is both sustainable and traditional. “In rural areas, hunting is often a way of life and a means of survival,” he explains. “Every part of the deer is utilised, including the musk, which is traditionally used in medicines. The legal, regulated market for deer musk helps to control and minimise illegal hunting activities.”

One of Adam’s standout creations is Paradise Soil. At US$450 for 53ml, it blends Russian deer musk, Azerbaijan rose from the 1970s, and Cambodian oud distilled a decade ago. Mysore sandalwood rounds out his cashmere-wrapped aroma.

For Adam, natural materials offer unmatched olfactory depth. “This is why traditional French perfumery, which relied heavily on natural materials, is still legendary today. Modern replacements, even when used in high doses, cannot compare,” he says.

Orris root, often called “blue gold,” is another example of raw material luxury. Its rhizomes take up to five years to mature, followed by years of curing to develop the desired aroma. Only two to four kilograms of orris butter are produced for every tonne of rhizomes. French house Jacques Fath celebrated the material in their 2018 release, L’Iris de Fath (US$1,380), a recreation of the iconic Iris Gris.

“The sophisticated and elegant scent of natural orris is difficult to replicate synthetically, making it irreplaceable in luxury perfumery – and, of course, very expensive,” explains Creative Director, Rania Naim.

Orris root aside, L’Iris de Fath features jasmine absolute from Grasse (in France’s Côte d’Azur region, known as the world’s perfume capital), Turkish rose, and carnation, with a Bourbon vetiver, and sandalwood base. At over $2,000 for 30ml, it’s an indulgence to savour.

Oud remains the reigning heavyweight of luxury fragrance. Its complexity inspires everything from cologne-like aquatics (Oud Minérale by Tom Ford), to gourmand blends like Nightingale by Zoologist. New York-based Ensar Oud takes oud to its extremes, sourcing rare varieties from Cambodia, Thailand, and Vietnam, and exploring every facet – from animalic depths to sweet, resinous highs. Their Oud Royale is a wild Cambodian oud masterpiece with resinous sweetness and smoky richness.

It comes with a warning: a little goes a long way. With a price tag of US$5,000 for three grams, every drop is precious. And potent.

For a more office-friendly version, Frederic Malle’s Dawn (US$1,990) blends the ferocity of agarwood with the softness of rose. “Raw ingredients like oud and rose bring a beautiful complexity and richness to a fragrance,” explains Carlos Benaïm, the nose behind Dawn.

“I used two types of extraction of the famous Damascena rose: absolute and essential oil. The association of both rose extracts allows us to capture and gather all its facets: green, spicy, floral, and fruity. A sophisticated rose combination that adorns the fragrance structure from top to bottom.”

Jasmine, meanwhile, often gets a bad rap in men’s fragrances –brushed off as too feminine – but Guerlain’s Jasmin Grandiflorum Extrait (US$630) flips the script. With a higher concentration, it dials up jasmine’s greener, muskier, and narcotic side. For something with even more metaphorical chest hair, Areej LeDoré’s Civet de Nuit (US$400) pairs jasmine with real civet(an anal-gland byproduct from the exotic civet animal), amplifying the flower’s animalic undertones.

Amouage is also pushing boundaries with its ExceptionalExtraits collection, redefining what intensity and craftsmanship mean in luxury perfumery. Expansions of pre-existing creations from the house, the Extraits line boasts some of the highest concentrations in the industry, with pure oil levels reaching up to 46 per cent. The result? Scents that are richer, longer-lasting, and brimming with complexity.

Take Jubilation 40 ($839), a bold celebration of resins, woods, and spices. This extrait showcases a deeply sophisticated profile that shifts and reveals new layers throughout the day. Then there’s Guidance 46 ($839), which leans into a creamier, nuttier territory. Notes of hazelnut and pear intertwine with a warm, woody base to create a fragrance that feels both comforting and luxurious, like wrapping yourself in a soft, cashmere blanket on a crisp evening.

What sets these scents apart isn’t just the strength of their profiles, but the artistry behind their creation. Each Extrait undergoes a meticulous aging process in Oman, where the ingredients are allowed to harmonise and deepen over months, resulting in notes that are clear and vibrant. Just a single spritz is enough to last all day, offering a scent journey that unfolds slowly and keeps surprising as the hours pass.

If you’ve enjoyed this feature article on natural fragrances, consider a few more of our favourite stories – direct from the pages of B.H. Magazine:

• Canvass The Opportunity: Your Guide To Investing In Australian Art
• Labour Of Love: Why Australia’s Locally-Grown Coffee Deserves Your Attention
• From Crayères To The Cabin: How Airlines Select Champagne For First & Business Class
• The True Cost Of Luxury: Confessions Of A Restaurant Critic
• Inside The Luxurious World Of Bespoke Cufflinks