A delicious, culturally important sub-category of dark spirits โ that remains hugely underrated in Australia โ Cognac is a drop thatโs worth exploring more.
The grape-based distillate has gotten major traction over the past half-decade, thanks to its growing visibility in pop culture and continuing importance to many of the worldโs most influential classic cocktails.
In simplest terms, a geographically designated style of brandy made in the French region of Cognac (ร la Scotch or Champagne) weโve assembled a tidy list of the best Cognac brands currently in-market. With this at your disposal, itโll be no time before you know your VSOPs from your XOs. Santรฉ!
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The Most Covetable Cognac Brands
Louis XIII (Best Overall)
- Parent Company: Rรฉmy Cointreau
- Signature Bottles: The Classic Decanter, Rare Cask 42.1, THE DROP
- Distillery Location: Juillac-le-Coq, Charente
- Price Point: Starting at $5,000
A vitally important brand of Cognac within the wider Rรฉmy Cointreau portfolio, โLouis XIIIโ takes its name from the eponymous ruler of 17th century France โ the nationโs first monarch โto recognise Cognac as a category of brandy in its own rightโ.
Originally the vision of Rรฉmy Martinโs great-grandson, Paul Emile; Louis XIII is โ to put things simply โ a Cognac made exclusively from the oldest eaux de vie (clear grape distillates) the House of Rรฉmy Martin has at its disposal.
The brandโs cellar masters routinely craft their โfinal blendโ (ergo, what the customer will taste) from 1,200 individual eaux de vie: resulting in a house style notable for its mingled aromas of honey, myrrh, fig, and dried florals. The Louis XIII decanter, hand-engraved with fleurs-de-lys, is equally recognisable.
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Whereas a typical โextra oldโ (XO) Cognac usually lingers on the palate for a few minutes, spirits enthusiasts routinely report that the finish of Louis XIII can take over an hour to dissipate.
Of course, access to such craftsmanship and ancient raw spirit comes at a cost; with standard 700ml Louis XIII decanters starting at around $5,000. This is to say nothing of the brandโs even more formidable โRare Caskโ releases โ roughly analogous to whisky drawn from a single barrel.
Traditionally, the brand has been the sole province of ultra-high-net-worth drinkers (โshroudedโ, as one private client director says, โin a veil of secrecyโ). However, this black box approach appears to be changing in recent years, as Louis XIII does more to engage the wider public: as seen in its 100 Years team-up with Pharrell, and recent customer-focused initiatives such as โThe Dropโ.
Martell
- Parent Company: Pernod Ricard
- Signature Bottles: Cordon Bleu, Martell XXO, LโOr de Jean Martell, Noblige
- Distillery Location: Gรขtebourse, Charante
- Price Point: Starting at $90
Established in 1715 โ thus making it the oldest of the โBig Fourโ Cognac houses โ Martell produces over 15 million bottles of the spirited stuff every year: celebrated far and wide for its iconic XO and โCordon Bleuโ bottlings.
The House also bears a unique connection to the United Kingdom, where its ancestral founder Jean Martell was born. In 1750, at the height of the Napoleonic Wars, Martell was granted an โexceptional import licenceโ: enabling bottles of the brandโs Cognac to be shipped to England unscathed, despite the ongoing Anglo-French conflict.
While longtime rival Hennessy was the earliest to utilise the โvery superior old paleโ (VSOP) grade, Martell was the first Cognac brand, in 1912, to market its XO with an original name โ Cordon Bleu.
Very much still a global bestseller (particularly in East Asia) this distinctive bottling is a testament to Martellโs obsession with terroir: made for a more complex, layered drinking experience through the use of grapes from Borderies (Cognacโs โthird Cruโ, after Grande and Petite Champagne).
Today, the House has a reputation for innovation: as demonstrated in its experimentation with double-cask finishing in the โBlue Swiftโ line, and excellent online cocktail-making resources.
Bisquit & Dubouche
- Parent Company: Campari Group
- Signature Bottles: V.S., V.S.O.P
- Distillery Location: Jarnac, Charante
- Price Point: Starting at $110
The first โnicheโ addition to our shortlist of the best Cognac brands, Bisquit & Dubouche was โ until recently โ not a purveyor of mature-aged French brandy with much in the way of Aussie distribution.
The House, based out of the southwesterly commune of Jarnac, currently offers two releases down under: a VSOP (aged for a minimum of 4 years); and an XO (aged for a minimum of 10 years).
The former managed to net โDouble Goldโ accolades at the 2021 San Francisco World Spirits Competitionโ the Oscars of the beverage industry โ and is noted for the high percentage of spirit it uses that comes from the Bon Bois region. In the glass, this makes for a mellow Cognac, full of juicy fruit flavours and a warming, spicy finish.
Camus
- Parent Company: Privately owned
- Signature Bottles: โDark & Stormyโ, Special Dry Borderies, V.S.O.P.
- Distillery Location: La Gรฎte, Borderies
- Price Point: Starting at $119
Camus is among a small handful of Cognac distillers (ditto those with a globetrotting clientele) who remain private and family-owned. It has operated out of Borderies โ the smallest of Cognacโs six legally designated production areas โ since 1863.
Camus is well-known for its focus on โintensely aromaticโ brandies: something that is reflected in the brandโs special releases and patented โinstensityโ distillation method.
Many of its bottlings only utilise the first 20 litres of the second distillation: ensuring that the intensely vivid flavour compounds known as esters are present in unprecedented amounts, prior to ageing.
Among Cognac lovers, the brand is popular for its โXO Borderiesโ: a single-estate expression that utilises wines from the Camus familyโs personal vineyards. Rich in relatively unusual notes of cinnamon and pastry cream, it is a great introduction to the high degree of sensorial specificity youโll find in many a Camus bottle (e.g. the โDark & Stormyโ series, first released in 2010).
Hennessy
- Parent Company: LVMH
- Signature Bottles: V.S, X.O., Paradis,
- Distillery Location: Maison Hennessy, Charente
- Price Point: Starting at $68
The company that puts the โHโ in โLouis Vuitton Moรซt Hennessyโ, itโs unsurprising that โHennyโ (as itโs widely known in our popular vernacular) is the most profitable and hyper-visible Cognac producer in the world.
With production volumes in excess of 102 million bottles per year, the House is also the largest single maker of Cognac globally โ accounting for 60% of sales in the USA alone.
Since its establishment, by Irish military officer Richard Hennessy, the brand has popularised a number of innovations which have now become standard practice in the Cognac industry. It was the first of the major houses to introduce the VSOP designation; and in 1870, Maurice Hennessy iterated further on that grading system by introducing the worldโs first XO (โextra-oldโ).
Through sibling company Moรซt & Chandonโs merger in 1988 with Louis Vuitton, the company became part of LVMH โ now the worldโs largest luxury goods conglomerate.
Aside from its famed VSOP and VS bottlings (the latter being the official spirit of the NBA), Hennessy offers a number of collectable rare editions: these range from a 3D-printed bottle of XO designed in concert with Fendiโs Kim Jones, to the $10,000+ โRichard Hennessyโ collection โ noted for its use of eaux de vie that are two centuries old.
Courvoisier
- Parent Company: Campari Group
- Signature Bottles: XO Royal, Mizunara Blend
- Distillery Location: Jarnac, Charente
- Price Point: Starting at $114
Established in 1835, Courvoisier is best known (to oenophiles and history buffs alike) as the preferred Cognac producer of one Napoleon Bonaparte.
Since the 19th century, the brand has been headquartered at the eponymous Maison Courvoisier and is the preeminent spirits brand in the Campari Group portfolio.
Among the four major Cognac brands, Courvoisier is the only one to have won the Prestige de la France, the countryโs highest accolade for quality, on two separate occasions.
The company introduced its own blend of XO in 1984 (relatively late by industry standards) but since then has spent considerable resources diversifying its offering. This includes its extra-old โRoyalโ diffusion line and, more intriguingly, the Mizunara wood-age series: incepted when the House was owned by Beam Suntory.
Cognac Frapin (Best Value)
- Parent Company: Privately owned
- Signature Bottles: Fontpinot XO, Frapin 1270, Milleฬsime series
- Distillery Location: Fontpinot, Segonzac
- Price Point: Starting at $95
Covering 240 hectares across the pristine Grande Champagne Cru, Frapin is another of our favourite independent cognac brands that youโll find at high-quality liquor specialists.
A fixture of international spirits competitions, the House has been family-owned and operated for 21 generations. At the centre of the companyโs estates is the Chรขteau Fontpinot: a 19th-century fortification conferring legal status on Frapin as the only Cognac-producing โChรขteauโ in Grande Champagne.
Aside from the usual array of VSOP and XO bottlings (all made, incidentally, from estate-grown grapes), Frapin possesses a complementary speciality in single vintage Cognac. This, in large part, is due to the excellent terroir on which Frapin is situated: where the iconic Ugni Blanc grape variety thrives, on friable limestone soil that is resistant to extremes of temperature and humidity, all while offering excellent drainage.
Fun fact: Frapin XO VIP was the only Cognac served aboard Concorde flights until the supersonic airlinerโs eventual retirement in 2003.
Rรฉmy Martin
- Parent Company: Rรฉmy Cointreau
- Signature Bottles: Rรฉmy Martin Club, Tercet, 1738 Accord Royal
- Distillery Location: Juillac-le-Coq, Charente
- Price Point: Starting at $113
Only very slightly younger than Martell, Rรฉmy Martin is the prestige Cognac house of the eponymous Rรฉmy Cointreau: the same French luxury spirits conglomerate behind Bruichladdich, Telmont, and Cointreau triple sec liqueur. The House celebrates its 300th anniversary this year.
Of the four major Cognac brands, Rรฉmy Martin is renowned for specialising in Cognac โFine Champagneโ: ergo, bottlings produced using eaux de vie sourced exclusively from Grande and Petite Champagne (widely considered the two best Crus in the Cognac region).
Notwithstanding its ultra-premium Louis XIII collection โ in many respects, treated as a separate brand โ Rรฉmy Martin offers the expected range of age-classified bottlings youโd expect from a grand old Maison.
The XO and Club ranges are reliable bestsellers (the latter being developed initially for the Chinese market in 1986); though the brandโs Cellar Master Baptiste Loiseau is also in the habit of creating one-off releases โ such as the single-barrel โCarte Blancheโ.