Editor’s Note: This story originally appeared in Volume IV of B.H. Magazine. To get your copy (and access to future issues), subscribe here.
A friend recently described the feeling of cosy as reclining on a leather Chesterfield, with the sound of a crackling fireplace, and a dram of Laphroaig. Another said it was the smell of fresh coffee and tobacco.
For me, the word ‘cosy’ summons up images of minimalist Tadao Ando interiors, the smell of incense, and the sound of rain. These varied perceptions inspired this season’s fragrance selection, which centres around the evocative notes of leather, tobacco, coffee, and incense.
Jump To:
Chandigarh Express by Ex Nihilo
Although a relative newcomer to the Australian market, French house Ex Nihilo has been creating some of the most interesting takes on classic accords for over a decade. Their 2024 Chandigarh Express gets our nod this season for its fascinating blend of leather, saffron, and cardamom that drifts effortlessly between sweet and spice.
Davana brings a herbaceous note, aided by the sharpness of balsam fir and rich patchouli. If you want to keep that middle tone of fruit and leather, try Black Saffron by Byredo. But why would you want to cut such an incredible journey short?
Terre D’Hermès Eau De Parfum Intense By Hermès
Another flanker of Hermès’ bestselling Terre d’Hermès, but this time, in-house perfumer Christine Nagel is setting the namesake earth on fire. At least, that’s what the press materials say, with notes of “lava” and “stone”.
In reality, this has a whopping delicious coffee and licorice accord that, while not listed, most certainly has a hint of sweet, woody cardamom. There is reference to the zestiness of the original TdH, but it’s more a distant cousin than immediate family. Take it from me, it’s the most unique and original in the Terre family tree.
Eucalyptus 20 by Le Labo
This fragrance smells nothing like eucalyptus. At least, not the oil everyone is familiar with. Like many Le Labo creations, the name is a misdirection. With a generous helping of frankincense (olibanum) in the opening, plus cedar and thyme, it has a solidly linear lifespan.
From top to bottom, it’s a straightforward, crisp, woody number with a subtle smokiness in the depths, that varies little and lasts the whole day. Ideal for a first date, but just as reliable for almost any occasion where you simply want to smell… good.
Or Du Serail by Naomi Goodsir
Paris-based Australian fashion and accessories designer Naomi Goodsir has steadily built a reputation for creating opulent, unconventional fragrances with a couture sensibility. A reflection of her design aesthetic, Goodsir’s releases are complex, often with notes of leather and suede.
Or du Serail (Gold of the Willow) wears like a golden haze with its blend of rum, tobacco, honey, oak, ripe apple, and mango. The nose behind it is the brilliant Bertrand Duchaufour, who has created a gourmand that can make your mouth water without relying heavily on vanilla.
Charcoal by Perfumer H
My definition of cosy is the kind of austere, meditative aroma that you would expect to smell in a monastery. Charcoal by British perfume house Perfumer H may speak with a soft voice – its resinous notes barely rise above a whisper – but it carries a big stick in regards to ingredient quality and longevity.
Elemi, cade oil, cedarwood, and vetiver create a wonderfully woody base, fuelling an incredible charred note courtesy of isobutyl quinoline molecule. If you’re after something that dials up the intensity, Aesop’s Ouranon is a quietly powerful composition.
The Black Knight by Francesca Bianchi
Honey also plays a central role in this fragrance, but where Or Du Serail takes a melt-in-your-mouth approach, Italian perfumer Francesca Bianchi goes for a fist-wrapped-in-raw-leather approach. The Black Knight is potent stuff – one or two sprays is more than enough, unless you’re the type who prefers to make an entrance.
It’s all saddle leather and smoke at first, but there’s a softer, more seductive core underneath thanks to honey, rose, and orris root. Still, if the idea of smelling like a mercenary after a month-long campaign doesn’t quite suit your office etiquette, consider Penhaligon’s Portraits: The Fortuitous Finley instead – a more genteel, roll-in-the-hay take on leather.
Purpose 50 by Amouage
Another addition to Omani House’s Exceptional Extraits, Purpose 50 is a perfect paradox of intensity and introspection. Retaining all the subtlety of the original Purpose – which had a wonderful airiness and easy wearing to it – this accord brings more intensity to the resinous base courtesy of an enormous 50 per cent oil concentration.
First sniff brings bergamot, pimento, and pink pepper into focus, creating a fascinating juxtaposition of freshness and spiciness. The heart is a smooth, creamy blend of frankincense, akigalawood, suede and even more frankincense. Around the edges, only the faintest notes of rose and vanilla are present. For something more budget-friendly, Comme des Garçons’ Kyoto is a charming alternative but not as decadent.
If you’ve enjoyed this list of the best cosy fragrances, consider a few more of our favourite stories – direct from the pages of B.H. Magazine:
- The Unmatched Depth (And Prices) Of High-End Natural Fragrances
- Pumped Up & Dangerous: The Hidden Epidemic Of Steroid Abuse
- Canvass The Opportunity: Your Guide To Investing In Australian Art
- The True Cost Of Luxury: Confessions Of A Restaurant Critic
- The Empire Steps Back: Western Diplomacy In The Trump Era
