Editor’s Note: This story originally appeared in Volume 5 of B.H. Magazine. To get your copy (and access to future issues), subscribe here.
The view might be the first thing you notice while on holiday, but it turns out it’s the way it smells that stays with us long after we’ve checked out. Science has found that our sense of smell is intricately linked to our experience of memory, courtesy of the amygdala, among a whole bunch of other neurons and nerves. Find the right fragrance, and suddenly you’re right back on holiday, reclining in that beachside lounge chair with a Mojito in-hand.
La Fortuna, Costa Rica

La Fortuna in Costa Rica is as close to a biblical Eden as you might imagine, with volcanoes that cultivate lush landscapes, pristine waterfalls, and incredible food. Moonlight in Heaven by Kilian Paris opens with a blast of zingy grapefruit, ripened with notes of mango, coconut, rice and almond-like heliotrope in the base, which turns what might have been a standard citrus cologne into something equally exotic. Perfect for tropical nights in South America.
Havana, Cuba

The reason why Cuban cigars were so coveted was due, in part, to their inaccessibility in the USA. But they also have a unique aromatic flavour. Hints of honey, hay, and floral notes overlay rich tobacco.The experience is perfectly mimicked by Tabac Tabou by Parfum d’Empire. Green narcissus and fenugreek add a richness that extend the wonderful tobacco note.
Marrakesh, Morocco

Spice markets, flowers, fruit, and musk animals – walking around Marrakesh is like stepping into a fragrant fog. Safran Secret by Maison Crivelli highlights one of the city’s most recognisable spices, saffron, and wraps even more spice around it before a warm, blonde tobacco, slightly metallic dry down. It’s got an aura that lasts forever.
Zermatt, Switzerland

You’ll often find that people describe snow as smelling fresh or clean. True, at the start. Because beneath that is an incredible mossiness that becomes more pronounced as the day warms up and skis churn up the powder. This and the dry scent of ubiquitous pine trees blur together to almost smell like a decent gin. Upper Ten Men by Lubin uses an interesting blend of juniper berry, pink pepper, and saffron to deliver the familiar sensation of a chilly Swiss afternoon apres ski.
New York, America

New York City in the summer stinks. The mix of rubbish, sweaty bodies, exhaust fumes – it’s literally an armpit. But a New York “fall”, from September to November, is an entirely different aroma. The city caramelises. Roja Dove’s opulent Manhattan captures this moment perfectly. The blend of cinnamon and vanilla, with coconut, tobacco, and cloves mells exactly as though you’re standing down wind from a morning bakery.
Kyoto, Japan

What Kyoto lacks in vibrancy, it makes up for in serenity. With countless shrines peppered across the city, the smell of incense is one of its defining features. Apoteker Tepe’s Karasu mixes hinoki, siam wood, and a “smouldering paper” accord that carries that same dry-sweetness of traditional Japanese incense. Perfectly subtle, but unforgettable and distinct.
Positano, Italy

If you’ve stayed in Positano, chances are you’ve at least walked past the city’s famed Le Sirenuse. A few years back, a member of the Sersale family (who own the property) launched their own line of scents, Eau d’Italie, to capture the spirit of the former palazzo. Their most recent release, Acquadi Positano, is a literal postcard from it and the Amalfi Coast. Driftwood and salt notes mix withsignature Italian citruses. The result is as invigorating as jumping off the side of a yacht into theTyrrhenian Sea peak summer
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