First off, let’s get the obligatory stuff out of the way.
As always, Montblanc has used the occasion of Watches & Wonders 2024 to launch several classic sports watches (including the technically formidable ‘Deep 4810’), envisioned in the aesthetic of the brand’s signature ‘Iced’ diver line-up.
Those are all fantastic options on the daily, but for today’s purposes, we’re going to spend a bit more time looking at the newly announced Minerva chronograph and Geosphere ‘0 Oxygen’ — limited editions that speak to Montblanc’s fixation, respectively, on mechanical and material excellence.
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Our Favourite Montblanc Releases At Watches & Wonders 2024
Montblanc 1858 ‘Unveiled’ Minerva Monopusher Chronograph
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A new and decidedly exhibitionist take on Montblanc’s signature range of single-pusher Minerva chronographs, the ‘Unveiled’ showcases the addition of numerous “apertures” into the watch’s case sides. The purpose? So that light can illuminate the manually wound chronograph movement’s impressive architecture — complete with column wheel and the distinctive “V-shaped” bridgework.
The movement, which is also a new addition to the burgeoning stable of high-end Montblanc chronographs, is constructed around a series of pillars. Dubbed calibre MB M16.26, the impression we got (even looking at early press imagery) was of a skeletonised watch. The subtle difference here is that in this ‘Unveiled’ Minerva, the gear train and chronograph bridge were designed (from the ground up) to be seen in profile.
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Indeed, the unique architecture of the latter component has been emphasised by Montblanc, who chose to plate it in a rich medium-blue shade — echoed in the sfumato leather wristband that accompanies the piece.
Fans of the historic Minerva manufacture will likely also be intrigued by this new watch’s size. At 38.4mm x 7.70mm, it’s a step back towards the medium-size cases of the early 20th century; and a very proportionate housing for the newest generation of “one of the most beautiful chronograph movements of all time”. Available in a limited run of 100 pieces globally.
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2
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A continuation of Montblanc’s alpine pioneer-inspired range of Geosphere watches, the new ‘0 Oxygen CARBO2‘ explores the role that oxygen plays in mountaineering — in conceptual and literal fashion.
Exhibiting material innovation through and through, the mid-case of this new Montblanc watch is manufactured using a CO2 capture process, whereby said gas is extracted from a range of recycled mineral waste.
The resulting powder obtained from this process is then fused with carbon fibre. Hence, the watch’s CARBO2 moniker. A lightweight and chemically resistant material, carbon fibre has enjoyed many years of popularity in the luxury watch industry; and is bookended here, for additional toughness, with a titanium bezel and caseback.
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To emphasise the CARBO2‘s alpine theme, the innovative mid-case is engraved with a luminescent outline of the famous Mont Blanc mountain; with that same elevated mass depicted on the caseback using laser engraving.
As always, Montblanc has intended for this to be more than a simple homage to the feat of mountain exploration. As part of the brand’s ongoing series of ‘Zero Oxygen’ timepieces, it has been purpose-built “for explorers who need their equipment to work in harsh environments”.
The 43mm timepiece is hermetically sealed (so as to prevent the passage of oxygen); and there are a range of complications bound to prove interesting for wearers — even if the only ‘controlled ascending’ you do is into the first class cabin.
A date window and second time zone strike us as features with more daily usability; whereas the ‘Worldtime’ mechanism is executed using working north/south hemispheres. All in all, quite a bit of tech to play around with.