Iโve said it before, and Iโll say it again โ the GMT is watchmakingโs most practical complication. Not just for frequent flyers, but for anyone with loved ones on the other side of the world, business interests abroad, or simply those dedicated sporting fans following a league overseas.
Today, the GMT is a staple in just about every watchmakerโs catalogue, executed in countless different forms, but featuring the same core element: a way to track a second timezone. However, despite its ubiquity today, it was Longines that invented the very first wristwatches to track multiple time zones.
This year marks 100 years since Longines first invented the dual timezone watch, and to mark the occasion, the Saint-Imier-based brand is debuting the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 that pays tribute to the earliest methods of tracking global time. Contemporary in its design, but infused with the century thatโs passed since its earliest ancestors were crafted, this is sure to be one of Longinesโ best releases this year.
Before we get into the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925, however, itโs worth taking a quick look back at the past.
Longines first showed its expertise in making dual timezone tracking watches in 1908, when it created pocket watches for the Ottoman Empire, which needed to read Turkish and French time simultaneously to accurately schedule the Orient Express train. These watches are different from other watches capable of tracking two time zones, which typically contain two movements displaying the time on two different dials, with Longines instead offering two sets of centrally-mounted minutes and hours hands.
It was in 1925, however, when Longines created the first-ever two-timezone wristwatch, the square-cased Zulu, which got this name as a nod to โZulu timeโ being the military term for Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Used in a maritime context, it featured two red wedges that highlighted daily periods of radio silence, and even featured the Z flag (Zulu flag) just below the Longines logo, which ships raised to communicate with nearby vessels.
In 2022, Longines revived the name with the Spirit Zulu Time collection of GMT watches, which share the same blueprint as the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 we see here today.
This Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 special edition features a universally wearable 39mm stainless steel case, measuring 13.5mm in thickness, and promises a robust up to 100 bar of water resistance. Where it differs from previous members of the collection, however, is its 18ct rose gold cap 24-hour bezel, finished with circular brushing to bring a touch of elegance to its wrist presence.
Why not yellow gold? Rose gold was specifically chosen thanks to the precious metal alloy containing a percentage of copper, which is the same material thatโs embedded in the ground at the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, the home of GMT. Rose gold is also found on the hands and hour markers, offering a striking contrast to the dialโs inky black surface, as well as a touch of warmth to the aesthetic.
Other features of the dial are consistent with previous Spirit Zulu Time references. These include the symmetrically located date at 6 oโclock, five stars below the hand-stack, and Super-LumiNova-filled hands and hour markers for maximum legibility.
Turning the watch over and youโll find โ1925โ2025โ engraved on the frame of the sapphire crystal. Visible through the sapphire window is a rose gold-tone PVD-coated automatic winding rotor, etched with a map of the world with Greenwichโs location marked.
Powering the watch is the exclusive Longines calibre L844.4, equipped with a silicon balance spring for improved anti-magnetic properties (ISO 764 standard) and chronometer-certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It boasts an impressive up to 72 hours of power reserve, and, as youโd expect from Longines, the movement is nicely finished with Cรดtes de Genรจve on the bridges.
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 arrives on a brushed steel bracelet thatโs secured with a double folding clasp. In its special-edition box, youโll also find a black textile NATO strap, offering a little more versatility for owners.
Plenty of watchmakers are happy to celebrate just about any archival anniversary, but the centenary of the Longines-invented GMT wristwatch is one of the most significant milestones in watchmaking history. Itโs a fitting tribute to such a historically important innovation, both with its subtle nods to the past and its unflinchingly contemporary design.
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is currently available from Longines boutiques and online, with an Australian RRP of $6,925 AUD.
This article is produced in partnership with Longines. Thank you for supporting the brands that support Boss Hunting.
