The New Santos de Cartier (Now In Green) Proves There’s No Smoke Without Fire
— 29 March 2023

The New Santos de Cartier (Now In Green) Proves There’s No Smoke Without Fire

— 29 March 2023
Randy Lai
Randy Lai

For its annual extravaganza at Watches & Wonders 2023, Cartier has been leaning hard into the archive. Most of the attendant press coverage has coalesced around the Maison’s new range of Tank Normales – part of the ongoing, vintage-focused Privé collection.

But with production numbers capped at 200 apiece for even the two most basic gold and platinum variations (to say nothing of the skeletonised limited edition) these aren’t watches that the garden-variety punter is going to have much luck getting their hands on.

That’s why we’re giving the new Santos de Cartier with ‘smoky green’ dial a bit more time to shine: in the best tradition of the Maison, it’s a main-line release that manages to find the sweet spot between serious aesthetic exercise and daily wearer. And as an added bonus? Cartier are unveiling it in two sizes.

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Available in both ‘large’ (39.8mm) or ‘medium’ (35.1mm) configurations, there’s nothing inherently groundbreaking about the new Santos de Cartier. Putting aside the green dial execution (obviously), the technology and form factor that underline this model are consistent with the revised collection Cartier first unveiled back in 2018.

To that end, the majority of the watch’s external surfaces feature a vertically brushed effect; punctuated by the watch’s flanks and bezel, which are mirror-polished. You can get a sense of the similarities in the image below, which features the green release side by side with its ‘graduated blue’ cousin.

Naturally, the big drawcard is this Santos’s updated green dial: somewhere in the realm between a fume and sunburst finish, it is initially lacquered, before being vertically brushed to create a smoky effect. The completed dial is extremely sensitive to artificial light: at times appearing black under low illumination.

Santos de Cartier green

As you’d expect, in both the large and date window-free configurations, this new Santos de Cartier is powered by the calibre 1847 MC – a robust self-winding movement that has been a mainstay of the brand’s since 2015. The ‘Smartlink’ adjustment system, giving wearers a multitude of ways to wear their Santos, also makes a welcome return.

With just over three days left to go at the shows, here’s to a few more ‘achievable’ releases in this vein that are made for the rest of us. As always, be sure to check out all of our ongoing Watches & Wonders 2023 coverage here and – for up-to-the-minute updates – head over to Instagram.

Price: $12,200 (approx.) for large / $10,275 (approx.) for medium

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Randy Lai
Following 6 years in the trenches covering consumer luxury across East Asia, Randy joins Boss Hunting as the team's Commercial Editor. His work has been featured in A Collected Man, M.J. Bale, Soho Home, and the BurdaLuxury portfolio of lifestyle media titles. An ardent watch enthusiast, boozehound and sometimes-menswear dork, drop Randy a line at [email protected].


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