French Pinot? Italian Nebbiolo? Easy. But then the wine shop hits you with Baga, Touriga Nacional, or a label you genuinely can’t pronounce, and suddenly things get a little spicy.
Relax. You’re not alone. Portugal drinks far more of its own wine than it exports – historically, over half of production never leaves the country – and with more than 250 indigenous grape varieties, a little confusion is entirely justified.
Here’s the good news: most of these wines are absurdly good value, surprising (in the best possible way), and entirely worth the detour from your comfort zone.
On my latest visit, I tasted my way across the country to give you a no-nonsense cheat sheet to drinking Portugal properly.
Douro: Start with the Basics
The Douro isn’t just Portugal’s most famous wine region (and the birthplace of Port), it’s one of the oldest legally recognised wine regions in the world, dating back to 1756. Unlike most wine regions, where vines lounge in rich, comfy soil, Douro’s vines cling to unforgiving rock, giving the wines a distinctly mineral edge.
It’s best known for big, punchy reds like Touriga Nacional, with supporting actors such as Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo) and Tinta Cão bringing structure and spice. Personally, however, I think it’s the whites that deserve a serious look. Producer Luis Seabra is an excellent place to start for those looking to taste test at home.
Dão: Get a Taste for Portugal’s Burgundy
Think Burgundy, but less famous and far better value. In Dão, reds have a sense of elegance (think nuanced flavours, delicate fruit, a more silky texture) versus power (heavy, intense, jammy). Try this great Antonio Madeira Vinhas Velhas available to buy in Australia.
On the white side, Encruzado caught my eye. Portugal’s so-called “chameleon grape” drinks like a fresh white Burgundy (traditionally citrus, green apple) crossed with a more perfumed Rhône white (think stone fruit and honey). This versatility makes it really interesting. Unlike most delicate whites, it has enough body to stand up to grilled meats, not just seafood – or, if you want to play local, a wedge of the region’s creamy sheep’s milk cheese. Tasting at home? Try either a 100% Encruzado or this Taboadella to experience more of a blend.
Vinho Verde: Drink Your Greens
If you’ve eaten out in Portugal, chances are Vinho Verde has already snuck onto your table. Locals (and my mother) drink it like water. White Vinho Verde dominates; nearly 85% of all wine from the region is white, and although not sourced from a single grape, these wines share a lot of similar characteristics – light-bodied, lower in alcohol, high acidity, flavours of lemon blossom, green apple, grapefruit, with a sprinkle of floral notes. The key lesson here? Drink young (hence the verde), chill hard.
Within there are a few grapes worth knowing: Gouveio brings more zesty citrus and a lick of minerality; Loureiro leans more floral; while Alvarinho is the richer, seemingly more grown-up version.
I’m not normally a light-white person, but the Desviso Gouveio at Austa (a celebrated eatery in the heart of southern Portugal) completely won me over. Quick sidebar for a moment: everything at Austa was phenomenal. Clever, honest cooking; incredible produce straight from their garden; staff who talk you through every course with infectious enthusiasm; all in a beautiful, relaxed setting. Still can’t get over all the different ways they managed to tackle a tuna… and that caramelised banana skin for dessert. Ooft. If you’re ever in the Algarve, this one should be at the top of your list.
Now back to a few additional Portuguese curiosities worth sourcing or trying:
- Baga from Bairrada – Traditionally likened to Nebbiolo for its robust structure and ageability, but now modern producers are shaking things up with sparkling reds and rosés. Look here for some of the most exciting fizz coming out of Portugal.
- Ramisco from Colares – Rare, rugged (and yes, expensive) reds grown in sandy trenches. A sought-after gem representing Portugal’s deep-rooted viticultural heritage.
- Arinto dos Açores (and better known sibling Verdelho) from The Azores – Volcanic soil, Atlantic winds, and a tiny footprint make for wines with striking saline, mineral notes.
- Fortified wines from Madeira – Legendary fortified wines built to last; some bottles can gracefully age over a century. No Hollywood facelift required. Expect flavors of caramel, burnt sugar, walnut oil, orange peel, and dried fruits. Delicious.
Portugal’s wine scene is full of surprises – from fizzy Bairrada to salty Azorean whites, chameleon-like Encruzado, and Colares’ trench-grown Ramisco. Try them at home, or better yet, if you find yourself in country, flick through this article on your stroll to somewhere like Austa for a meal and let the staff guide you with this insight top of mind. Then sit back and see just how thrilling these wines can be when paired with honest, clever, local food.
