The 35 Best Seiko Watches Priced From $500 To $5,000
Image credit: timeandtidewatches.com
— 11 October 2023

The 35 Best Seiko Watches Priced From $500 To $5,000

— 11 October 2023
Nick Kenyon
WORDS BY
Nick Kenyon

While it’s easy to think only Swiss-made watches are high quality, Seiko is undeniably one of the best watchmakers around today. Innovation and boundary-pushing are in its DNA, while its current catalogue boasts watches that are affordable, attractive and built to last. A great combo no matter if you’re looking for your first watch or your 100th watch.

In the history of watchmaking, Seiko’s leaps and bounds aren’t as well recognised as they should be. The first quartz watch and one of the first automatic chronographs are thanks to Seiko, which is why so many love the brand today.

If you’re in the market for a new timepiece and you don’t yet have a Seiko in your collection, it’s a brand we definitely encourage you to dig a little deeper into. From sports watches and diving watches, the best Seiko watches are timepieces you can own for life.

best seiko watches

RELATED: Our Definitive List Of The Best Grand Seiko Watches In 2023



Prospex Line

The Seiko Prospex Line is a collection that predominantly focuses on professional spec (hence the name pro-spex) dive watches and chronographs. Representing premium build quality and designed for adventure, it’s a function-forward collection that is loved by collectors around the world.

1. Seiko “Turtle” SRPE93 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 44.3mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Urethane
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

We had to start with the Seiko SRPE93 “Turtle” because it represents so much of what makes the Japanese watchmaker so great: affordable, reliable, and well-designed. It’s a solid hunk of steel, sure, but its case shape with short lugs means it wears great on the wrist.

Additionally, the strap is comfortable and it’s powered by a movement that won’t let you down. With Seiko’s history of producing dive watches (including the Seiko Samurai, Sumo and beyond), this is one of the classics.


2. Seiko “Navigator GMT” SPB411

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 38.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.6mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Dark grey
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R54
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

This is a special piece from Seiko, inspired by the Japanese watchmaker’s first GMT watch with a rotating bezel from 1968. With a brushed steel bezel, distinctive five-row bracelet and GMT hand that pops against the dark grey dial, it’s a faithful reissue that collectors already love. If you’re in the market for a travel watch, you could do a lot worse than this.


3. Seiko “62MAS” SJE093 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 38mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.5mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Unspecified
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Silicon
  • Dial Colour: Dark grey
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6L37
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

A brand new release by Seiko in 2023, this limited edition dive watch is an almost 1:1 recreation of the very first Seiko dive watch that made its debut in 1965. Featuring a heritage-inspired case size, wonderfully domed sapphire crystal over the dial and a new slimline movement, it arrives with a price tag you might not be used to seeing on a Seiko. For purists, however, this is absolutely spot-on value.


4. Seiko “Eucalyptus” SRPJ53 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 45mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Green
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

The Seiko SRPJ53 “Turtle” is the first ever Australian (and New Zealand) limited edition watch. With a dial and bezel colour inspired by our famous eucalyptus trees, it’s perfect for a lifestyle on the water with a solid depth rating and a robust steel bracelet.


5. Seiko “Arnie” SNJ027 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 47.8mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.8mm
  • Case Material: Plastic and steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Silicone
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: H851 solar powered
  • Power Reserve: 6 months

The design of this analogue/digital dive watch was made famous on the wrist of Arnold Schwarzenegger in Predator (1987) and has earned itself a cult following thanks to its unmissable profile. The Seiko “Arnie” SNJ027 has the added detail of being PADI-certified, cementing its position as a legend within the world of dive watches.


6. Seiko SPB38 GMT Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.9mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Ceramic
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6R54
  • Power Reserve: 72

Another relatively recent release from Seiko, the Seiko SPB383 and its dive watch-GMT siblings are the ultimate crowd pleasers: robust everyday watches that benefit from the ability to track multiple time zones. With elevated details such as an updated movement and a ceramic bezel, this is one of those automatic watches you’ll see on plenty of collectors’ wrists thanks to it being the complete package.


7. Seiko SRQ043 Chronograph

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 15.1mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 8R46
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

This automatic chronograph Seiko SRQ043 is inspired by the brand’s history of Olympic timekeeping and features a high-contrast dial and oversized pushers (easy to read, and easy to use respectively). The movement inside is no slouch either, featuring a vertical clutch and column wheel; while the case and bracelet are covered in Seiko’s Super-Hard steel coating for long-lasting robustness.


8. Seiko SLA021 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 44.3mm
  • Case Thickness: 15.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Ceramic
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 300m
  • Movement: 8L35
  • Power Reserve: 50

A professional-grade dive watch from Seiko, the SLA021 boasts improved water resistance thanks to its monobloc construction; and an adjustable clasp on the bracelet able to slide over the sleeve of your wetsuit with relative ease. With a sapphire crystal over the dial and a ceramic bezel, it’s a premium expression of the dive watch category Seiko has dominated for so many decades.


9. Seiko “62MAS” SPB145 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 40.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.15,,
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Brown
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Power Reserve: 70

A contemporary classic, the Seiko SPB145 was released a few years ago to near-unanimous critical and commercial praise; drawing inspiration from Seiko’s first dive watch in an unashamedly modern way. Meeting today’s tastes with a larger case size than the original, as well as a warm brown dial that looks great on the wrist thanks to its sunburst finish, this is a diver that you’ll be hard-pressed to fault —especially for its price.


10. Seiko “Alpinist” SPB121

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: Green
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

The Seiko SPB121 “Alpinist” found its inspiration in the early 1960s: when the company was producing its very first tool watches to be worn by Japanese mountain climbers. As a result, it’s robust, accurate, highly water-resistant and even features a rotating compass ring around the dial that can be turned using the secondary crown at 4 o’clock.


11. Seiko “6105” SPB153 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.7mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Silicone
  • Dial Colour: Green
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

The unusual case shape of the Seiko SPB153 is inspired by a legend within the Japanese watchmaker’s archive — the diver ref. 6105. Popular among US marines who saw action in the Vietnam War, it was forever immortalized by Martin Sheen in the Francis Ford Coppola epic, Apocalypse Now. While the original ref. 6105 was black, this green reissue reminds us of its military origins and is extremely comfortable on the wrist thanks to its well-proportioned case and comfortable strap.

Suffice it to say, you won’t regret owning one.


12. Seiko “Turtle” SRPE39 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 45mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Ceramic
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

We’ve looked at a couple of Seiko “Turtle” divers already, but the Seiko SRPE39 is one of the very best out — thanks to a number of upgraded components and its support of ocean conservation charities. The sapphire crystal over the deep blue dial features a Cyclops magnifier, the bezel is ceramic and a portion of sales proceeds will go towards Seiko’s Save The Ocean program (which donates money to organisations working to protect the oceans of our planet).

Win, win, win.


13. Seiko “Speedtimer” SSC813 Chronograph

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.3mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: White
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: V192 solar powered
  • Power Reserve: 6 months

A well-balanced chronograph that could easily slot into our shortlist of the best Rolex Daytona alternatives, the Seiko SSC813 “Speedtimer” is a set-and-forget watch that you can happily wear any day of the week. With a case size that’s universally versatile, a super long-lasting solar-power movement and a design that’ll look great for decades to come, it’s a solid addition to any collection.


14. Seiko SFK001 GMT Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 45mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.1mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 5K65 solar powered
  • Power Reserve: 9 months

The Seiko SFK001 “Sumo” is another new release from the brand, offering a slightly different case design and movement, but with the blended functionality of a GMT dive watch. Its blue dial works excellently as a canvas for the orange GMT hand to contrast against; while the solar-powered movement boasts an improved battery life of 9 months.


Seiko 5

The Seiko 5 collection has long been the entry point for collecting mechanical watches. Many of the most respected watch enthusiasts began their journey as Seiko fans with a Seiko 5 on their wrist, thanks to the robustness, design range and value for money offered by the collection.

15. Seiko “Pepsi” SRPD53 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

A classic design from Seiko, the SRPD53 represents the latest generation of this collection with a timeless blue and red bezel, a solid mechanical movement and a pretty wearable case size. When you consider its RRP, it’s a tough timepiece to beat if you’re looking to buy your first watch.


16. Seiko SSK005 GMT Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.5mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Orange
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 4R34
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

It’s all about the GMT complication in 2023. Just as we saw several new models in the Prospex collection get the dual timezone treatment, so too has the Seiko 5 range gotten the SSK005. The black bezel and orange dial are eye-catching, and the hardlex crystal over the dial boasts a magnifying cyclops and is fitted to a comfortable five-link jubilee-style bracelet, daily wearability really doesn’t get much better than this.


17. Seiko SRPK17

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.5mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41mm

With such an illustrious history behind it, Seiko’s archives are rich with inspiration. To celebrate the 55th anniversary of the Seiko 5 collection, the Japanese watchmaker has tapped some of that aforementioned heritage with the vintage-inspired SRPK17.

From the case shape and the bracelet to the design of the hands and the text on the dial, it’s retro through and through — and could well rank as one the best Seiko 5 releases in years.


18. Seiko SRPK09 Diver

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Silver
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

Another heritage-inspired reissue, the Seiko SRPK09 takes inspiration from the brand’s 1969 Seiko 5 collection; but skews a little more contemporary thanks to the modern design of its case and bracelet. The chequer-style bezel is a nice detail and the orange second-hand just ‘pops’ off the dial, adding subtle points of interest to a timepiece that already feels super-wearable.


19. Seiko SRPG27 Field Watch

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.4mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

A classic design within the realm of field watches, this Seiko SRPG27 is a no-nonsense timepiece that does exactly what it says on the tin — communicate the time. With large Arabic numerals, a combined day/date display window and an exceedingly comfortable bracelet, this is about as elemental as watch design gets.


King Seiko

If you’re a regular reader of Boss Hunting, you’ll be well aware of the name Grand Seiko. However, what you might not know is that during the 1960s, Grand Seiko and King Seiko (both subsidiaries within the larger Seiko company) competed against each other to produce its eponymous parent’s best watches.

While watches bearing the Grand Seiko name have been made almost without pause since then, King Seiko watches disappeared from the mid-70s until 2020, when the name was revived with the reissue of the 1965 King Seiko KSK (the original reference was 44-9990). If you’re after a deep dive into the eye-catching design of these watches, investigate Taro Tanaka’s Grammar of Design.

20. King Seiko SJE087

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 38.1mm
  • Case Thickness: 13,37mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Crocodile leather
  • Dial Colour: Silver
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 6L35
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

Featuring the distinctive case shape of the original King Seiko KSK, the Seiko SJE087 (limited edition) is a faithfully modern reissue of a timepiece in Seiko’s history that isn’t known as well as it should be. The golden hour markers and hands bring a touch of warmth to the otherwise austere silver dial, while if you flip the watch over you’ll be greeted with a recreation of the 60s King Seiko emblem on the caseback.


21. King Seiko SPB371

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39mm
  • Case Thickness: 11.9mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R55
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours

The Seiko SPB371 is one of the contemporary faces of King Seiko, with the Grammar of Design-inspired faceted lugs and dial, but more modern case proportions and a steel bracelet. It arrives with a slender profile on the wrist, upgraded movement with solid power reserve, decent water resistance and a blue dial that can be dressed up or down with ease.


22. King Seiko SPB281

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 37mm
  • Case Thickness: 12mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Silver
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R31
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

Arriving with effectively the same dial and case design as the previous King Seiko we just looked at, the Seiko SPB281 is slightly smaller in diameter at 37mm, making it a great unisex option. With a comfortable steel bracelet and neutral silver dial, there’s not much to dislike about this particular reference — especially if you love clean and minimal tonal aesthetics.


Presage Line

The Seiko Presage Line is a place for the Japanese watchmaker to showcase its decorative acumen: from the creation of remarkable porcelain, enamel and traditional lacquer dials; to its mirror-like case finishing.

If you have an eye for the ‘craft’ of watchmaking, then the Presage line is undoubtedly worthy of your attention.

23. Seiko “Enamel” SJE075 Dress Watch

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39mm
  • Case Thickness: 10.9mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Crocodile leather
  • Dial Colour: White
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 6L35
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

In the world of Swiss watchmaking, you can expect to pay five or six figures for a fine enamel dial, however, the Seiko SJE075 brings that cost down significantly as a relatively affordable dress watch with one of the cleanest dials you’ll ever lay eyes on.

Nicely proportioned and offering details such as head-blued steel hands and a folding clasp for the leather strap, there’s so much to enjoy here for the price of admission.


24. Seiko “Sharp Edges” SPB219 GMT

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.2mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.7mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Green
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R64
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

While the Presage collection is generally focused on dress watches, it boasts several sportier references such as the Seiko SPB219, offering solid water resistance, GMT functionality and a robust steel bracelet. In addition to the GMT complication that’s read against the black 24-hour bezel, the dial also offers a date complication at 6 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, making it a properly functional daily sports watch.


25. Seiko “Shippo Enamel” SJE079 Dress Watch

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 10.9mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Crocodile leather
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 6L35
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

Similar to the Seiko SJE075 in its case shape and movement, the SJE079 takes the immaculate enamel work to another level. Rather than the simpler white dial, this reference features a rich blue Shippo enamel dial with a rippling texture across its surface that reminds of calm waters.


26. Seiko SSK011 GMT

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 40.8mm
  • Case Thickness: 13mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Aluminium
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: Champagne
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 4R34
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

Another sportier model within the Presage line-up, the Seiko SSK011 has a function-forward design that works well with the GMT complication it features. While its water resistance means it doesn’t quite qualify as a “go-anywhere, do-anything” timepiece, its perforated leather strap is comfortable on the wrist and its automatic movement is as robust as they come.


27. Seiko SPB395

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 40.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.8mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: Burgundy
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 6R24
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

The Presage collection is a place where Seiko flexes its dial-making muscles and, in addition to the impressive enamel dials, the range also features a number of references with traditional Japanese Urushi lacquer dials such as this Seiko SPB395.

Originally launched as a member of a limited edition collection celebrating 110 years of Seiko watchmaking, this stunning burgundy and gold dial features both a day and date complication — as well as a power reserve indicator — that are all laid out nicely across the dial.


28. Seiko “Sharp Edges” SPB167

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.2mm
  • Case Thickness: 11.1mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

This line-up of Seiko Presage Sharp Edges watches is nicknamed “baby Grand Seiko” thanks to their excellent finishing and attention to detail in the design of their dials. Powered by the impressive 6R35 automatic movement with 70 hours of power reserve, the Seiko SPB167 would be a great addition to any watch collection.


29. Seiko “Cocktail Time” SRPJ13 Dress Watch

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 11.7mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 4R35
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

Sitting within the popular Cocktail Time collection, this Seiko SRPJ13 is designed to be enjoyed after a long day at the office; and a well-made drink resting on the bar in front of you. The case is well-proportioned and offers a dial that has plenty of detail to get excited about — yet another affordable example of Seiko’s value-driven watchmaking.


Astron

Named after the world’s first quartz watch that Seiko debuted in 1969, the Astron collection is unfaltering in its commitment to accuracy. With a range of watches that maintain their timekeeping via connections to the GPS network, the Seiko Astron collection never needs a battery change because it is solar-powered.

The benchmark for set-and-forget watchmaking.

30. Seiko SSH109 GPS

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.5mm
  • Case Material: Titanium
  • Bezel Material: Titanium
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Titanium
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 5X53
  • Power Reserve: 2 years between charges

Truly a marvel of modern watchmaking, the Seiko SSH109 boasts an incredible accuracy of +/-1 second every 100,000 years, made possible thanks to its GPS connection that delivers daily automatic time adjustment. It also features a day and date complication, as well as a second timezone that is displayed in a separate sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Very impressive stuff.


Vintage

While Seiko has a catalogue of hundreds of compelling watches today, its history is all the more rich and fascinating. Here is a small selection of our favourite vintage Seiko watches from decades past.

31. Seiko SKX007 Diver – 1996

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.3mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 7S26
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

A true legend within the watch world, if the Rolex Submariner is the iconic dive watch, the Seiko SKX007 is its affordable counterpart. The first watch many collectors ever buy, it looks great on a range of different rubber and NATO straps (as well as its original five-link jubilee-style bracelet), is bulletproof in its build quality and wears very nicely on most wrists.

It was a sad day when it was revealed the Seiko Diver was being discontinued in favour of the Seiko 5 collection, but the Seiko SKX007 will remain one of the watch community’s dive watch darlings. While it would cost you less than $300 when it was still in production, prices for the SKX007 have jumped in the years since — expect to pay anywhere between $880 and $1,500 for an example in good condition today.


32. Seiko Astron, The First-Ever Quartz Watch – 1969

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 36mm
  • Case Thickness: 11mm
  • Case Material: 18ct yellow gold
  • Bezel Material: 18ct yellow gold
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: Gold
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: Calibre 35SQ
  • Power Reserve: 1 year

On Christmas Day in 1969, Seiko changed the face of watchmaking forever with the announcement of the quartz-powered Astron watch. The level of disruption the Japanese watch brand created within the Swiss and German watchmaking industries is hard to comprehend, with many European watchmakers ceasing to exist as they struggled to compete with the Astron and its descendants — accurate to ±5 seconds per month and much more affordable.

While quartz watches would quickly become affordable, the very first Astron arrived with an eye-watering price of 450,000 yen (US$1,250) — about the same price as a Toyota Corolla at that time. Original examples are so rare it’s understood that Seiko produced a copy for the Smithsonian Museum when it requested an example for its collection, and the only examples I’ve seen sold are privately between collectors or locally within Japan. If you find an example, expect to pay at least $15,000 and consider yourself very lucky.


33. Seiko Automatic – 1956

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 36mm
  • Case Thickness: 11mm
  • Case Material: 14ct gold filled
  • Bezel Material: 14ct gold filled
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: White
  • Water Resistance: N/A
  • Movement: 11A
  • Power Reserve: 36 hours

Another relatively rare and important Seiko from the history books is the very first automatic watch released by the watch manufacturer, launched in 1956 (just three years after Patek Philippe’s first automatic calibre made its debut). Featuring a gold-filled case (similar to gold-plated), its hour markers are brilliantly three-dimensional and it arrived with a power reserve indicator at the 12 o’clock position just above the logo.

Though they’re far from impossible to find, expect to pay between $1,800 and $2,200 for an example kept in reasonably good condition.


34. Seiko 5 Sports Speed-Timer, The First-Ever Automatic Chronograph – 1969

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 41mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 70m
  • Movement: Caliber 6139
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

If there’s one thing that watchmakers love to argue about, it’s who was first in the race to invent a new innovation. One such argument that continues to this day is which brand first created the automatic chronograph in 1969: with Heuer’s Caliber 11, Zenith’s El Primero and Seiko’s Caliber 6139 all claiming the accolade. Zenith appears to have announced its movement first (January), while Seiko released its movement to the Japanese market first (May) and Heuer launched to the global market fastest (August).

With the launch of the quartz Astron in the same year, 1969 was a busy one for Seiko as it also launched the Caliber 6139-powered Seiko 5 Sports Speed-Timer automatic chronograph. One of the earliest references is the 6139-6010, with a day and date complication, as well as a 30-minute chronograph counter. While not terribly rare, an example in good condition should set you back around $2,000.


35. Seiko 150M Diver “62MAS” – 1965

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.5mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Rubber
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 150m
  • Movement: Caliber 6217
  • Power Reserve: Unknown

Serving as the inspiration for many recent reissues, the original Seiko 150M Diver “62MAS” from 1965 is a legendary timepiece in the history of Seiko dive watches. The original version from 1965 features a small crown and the ref. 6217-8000, which was followed up in the same year by the ref. 6217-8001 with a larger crown, but both versions featured date widows and arrived on waffle-style rubber straps. To add one of these to your collection isn’t going to be an affordable exercise, so you should expect to pay between $6,000 and $8,000.


Frequently Asked Questions

Are 'JDM' Seiko watches better?

Both Japanese-market and international-market Seikoes are well made, but the range of watches available within Japan is much larger, which gives the impression that Japanese Seiko is better.

Are all Seiko watches good quality?

All Seiko watches are good quality, but there are some timepieces within the Seiko catalogue that are produced to higher specifications and with more handcrafted techniques. As a result, the prices of a Seiko watch can vary quite a lot.

Why is Seiko 5 the best?

The Seiko 5 watch collection is considered one of the best ranges of watches because of its reliable mechanical movements, quality manufacturing and affordable prices. Not many other watchmakers can offer the value of a Seiko 5.

Nick Kenyon
WORDS by
Nick Kenyon is the Editor of Boss Hunting, joining the team after working as the Deputy Editor of luxury watch magazine Time+Tide. He has a passion for watches, with other interests across style, sports and more. Get in touch at nick (at) luxity.com.au