The 33 Best Seiko Watches From $500 To $5,000
— 21 March 2024

The 33 Best Seiko Watches From $500 To $5,000

— 21 March 2024
Nick Kenyon
WORDS BY
Nick Kenyon

While it’s easy to think only Swiss-made watches are high quality, Seiko is undeniably one of the best watchmakers today. Innovation and boundary-pushing are in its DNA, while its current catalogue boasts watches that are affordable, attractive and built to last. The best Seiko watches are great no matter if you’re looking for your first watch or your 100th watch.

RELATED: Our Definitive List Of The Best Grand Seiko Watches In 2024



Prospex

The Seiko Prospex Line is a collection that predominantly focuses on professional spec (hence the name pro-spex) dive watches and chronographs. Representing premium build quality and designed for adventure, it’s a function-forward collection that is loved by collectors everywhere.

Seiko SPB451

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 44mm
  • Case Thickness: 13mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 300m
  • Movement: 6R55
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours

If you’ve ever looked at Seiko dive watches before, the Seiko SPB451 appears to be quite similar to a number of previous 62MAS-inspired references. However, this latest edition is slightly smaller in diameter and thinner, while arriving with an upgraded movement that boasts no less than 72 hours of power reserve.

With an uncompromising 300m of water resistance and either a black or the blue dial you see here, it’s a compelling option as far as high-performance everyday dive watches go.


Seiko SRQ047

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42mm
  • Case Thickness: 14.6mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: White and black
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 8R48
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

Seiko’s history as a pioneer in the world of racing chronographs isn’t widely known, but the fact is the Japanese watchmaker was one of the very first in the world to launch an automatic chronograph. This “Speedtimer” is a nod to these early chronographs, featuring a popular black and white “panda” dial, reasonably proportioned case and vintage-inspired bracelet.


Seiko “Turtle” SRPE93 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 44.3mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Urethane
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

Not to get too excited, but the SRPE93 “Turtle” might be one of the best Seiko watches of all time. It represents so much of what makes the Japanese watchmaker so great: affordable, reliable, and well-designed. Yes, it’s a solid hunk of steel, but its case shape with short lugs means it wears great on the wrist.

Additionally, the strap is comfortable and it’s powered by a movement that won’t let you down. With Seiko’s history of producing dive watches (including the Seiko Samurai, Sumo and beyond), this is one of the best Seiko watches in the game today.


Seiko “Navigator GMT” SPB411

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 38.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.6mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Dark grey
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R54
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

This is a special piece from Seiko, inspired by the Japanese watchmaker’s first GMT watch with a rotating bezel from 1968. With a brushed steel bezel, distinctive five-row bracelet and GMT hand that pops against the dark grey dial, it’s a faithful reissue that collectors already love. If you’re in the market for a travel watch, you could do a lot worse than this.


Seiko SPB38 GMT Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.9mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Ceramic
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6R54
  • Power Reserve: 72

Another relatively recent release from Seiko, the Seiko SPB383 and its dive watch-GMT siblings are the ultimate crowd pleasers: robust everyday watches that benefit from the ability to track multiple time zones. With elevated details such as an updated movement and a ceramic bezel, this is one of those automatic watches you’ll see on plenty of collectors’ wrists thanks to it being the complete package.


Seiko SLA021 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 44.3mm
  • Case Thickness: 15.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Ceramic
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 300m
  • Movement: 8L35
  • Power Reserve: 50

A professional-grade dive watch from Seiko, the SLA021 boasts improved water resistance thanks to its monobloc construction; and an adjustable clasp on the bracelet able to slide over the sleeve of your wetsuit with relative ease. With a sapphire crystal over the dial and a ceramic bezel, it’s a premium expression of the dive watch category Seiko has dominated for so many decades.


Seiko “62MAS” SPB143 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 40.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.15mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Grey
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Power Reserve: 70

A contemporary classic, the Seiko SPB143 was released a few years ago to near-unanimous critical and commercial praise; drawing inspiration from Seiko’s first dive watch in an unashamedly modern way. Meeting today’s tastes with a larger case size than the original, as well as a grey dial that looks great on the wrist thanks to its sunburst finish, this is a diver that you’ll be hard-pressed to fault —especially for its price.


Seiko “Alpinist” SPB121

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: Green
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

The Seiko SPB121 “Alpinist” found its inspiration in the early 1960s: when the company was producing its very first tool watches to be worn by Japanese mountain climbers. As a result, it’s robust, accurate, highly water-resistant and even features a rotating compass ring around the dial that can be turned using the secondary crown at 4 o’clock.


Seiko “6105” SPB153 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.7mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Silicone
  • Dial Colour: Green
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

The unusual case shape of the Seiko SPB153 is inspired by a legend within the Japanese watchmaker’s archive — the diver ref. 6105. Popular among US marines who saw action in the Vietnam War, it was forever immortalized by Martin Sheen in the Francis Ford Coppola epic, Apocalypse Now. While the original ref. 6105 was black, this green reissue reminds us of its military origins and is extremely comfortable on the wrist thanks to its well-proportioned case and comfortable strap.

Suffice it to say, you won’t regret owning one.


Seiko “Turtle” SRPE03 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 45mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Ceramic
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

We’ve looked at a couple of Seiko “Turtle” divers already, but the Seiko SRPE03 is as clean as they come thanks to its black textured dial. The sapphire crystal features a Cyclops magnifier, the bezel is ceramic, and the bracelet is as strong as they come. Win, win, win.


Seiko “Speedtimer” SSC813 Chronograph

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.3mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: White
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: V192 solar powered
  • Power Reserve: 6 months

A well-balanced chronograph that could easily slot into our shortlist of the best Rolex Daytona alternatives, the Seiko SSC813 “Speedtimer” is a set-and-forget watch that you can happily wear any day of the week. With a case size that’s universally versatile, a super long-lasting solar-power movement and a design that’ll look great for decades to come, it’s a solid addition to any collection.


Seiko 5

The Seiko 5 collection has long been the entry point for collecting mechanical watches. Many of the most respected watch enthusiasts began their journey as Seiko fans with a Seiko 5 on their wrist, thanks to the robustness, design range and value for money offered by the collection.

Seiko SRPL01 “Repco Supercars Championship” Edition

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel and complimentary additional urethane strap
  • Dial Colour: Black and red
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

If you love your local motorsport as much as you do your watches, this Seiko 5 could be the perfect one for you. Arriving in a special edition box set and featuring a chequered flag-inspired bezel pattern, it’s an ideal stealthy addition to any car-lover’s watch collection.


Seiko SRPK67

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black and blue
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

Another motorsports-inspired timepiece that takes a less literal approach to its design, this Seiko 5 features subtle blue highlights on the dial with a pop of orange for the seconds hand. With 100m of water resistance, a solid mechanical movement and a strong steel bracelet, there’s not too much to fault with the SRPK67.


Seiko “Pepsi” SRPD53 Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

A truly classic design from Seiko 5, the SRPD53 represents the best and most advanced generation of this collection with a timeless blue and red bezel, solid mechanical movement and a pretty wearable case size. When you consider its RRP, it’s a tough timepiece to beat if want your first timepiece to be one of the best Seiko watches available right now.


Seiko SSK005 GMT Diver

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.5mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Orange
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 4R34
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

It was all about the GMT complication in 2023. Just as we saw several new models in the Prospex collection get the dual timezone treatment, so too has the Seiko 5 range gotten the SSK005 looking its best. The black bezel and orange dial are eye-catching, and the hardlex crystal over the dial boasts a magnifying cyclops and is fitted to a comfortable five-link jubilee-style bracelet, daily wearability really doesn’t get much better than this.


Seiko SRPG27 Field Watch

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.4mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 4R36
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

A classic design within the realm of field watches, this Seiko SRPG27 is a no-nonsense timepiece that does exactly what it says on the tin — communicate the time. With large Arabic numerals, a combined day/date display window and an exceedingly comfortable bracelet, this is about as elemental as watch design gets.


King Seiko

If you’re a regular reader of Boss Hunting, you’ll be well aware of the name Grand Seiko. However, what you might not know is that during the 1960s, Grand Seiko and King Seiko (both subsidiaries within the larger Seiko company) competed against each other to produce its eponymous parent’s best watches.

While watches bearing the Grand Seiko name have been made almost without pause since then, King Seiko watches disappeared from the mid-70s until 2020, when the name was revived with the reissue of the 1965 King Seiko KSK (the original reference was 44-9990). If you’re after a deep dive into the eye-catching design of these watches, investigate Taro Tanaka’s Grammar of Design.

King Seiko SJE087

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 38.1mm
  • Case Thickness: 13,37mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Crocodile leather
  • Dial Colour: Silver
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 6L35
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

Featuring the distinctive case shape of the original King Seiko KSK, the Seiko SJE087 (limited edition) is a faithfully modern reissue of a timepiece in Seiko’s history that isn’t known as well as it should be. The golden hour markers and hands bring a touch of warmth to the otherwise austere silver dial, while if you flip the watch over you’ll be greeted with a recreation of the 60s King Seiko emblem on the caseback.


King Seiko SPB281

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 37mm
  • Case Thickness: 12mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Silver
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R31
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

Arriving with effectively the same dial and case design as the previous King Seiko we just looked at, the Seiko SPB281 is slightly smaller in diameter at 37mm, making it a great unisex option. With a comfortable steel bracelet and neutral silver dial, there’s not much to dislike about this particular reference — especially if you love clean and minimal tonal aesthetics.


Presage Line

The Seiko Presage Line is a place for the Japanese watchmaker to showcase its decorative acumen: from the creation of remarkable porcelain, enamel and traditional lacquer dials; to its mirror-like case finishing.

If you have an eye for the ‘craft’ of watchmaking, then the Presage line is undoubtedly worthy of your attention.

Seiko SPB467

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 40.2mm
  • Case Thickness: 13mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Salmon
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R55
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours

One of the most recent additions to the Presage collection is this charming Seiko SPB467, which arrives with an almost universally wearable 40.2mm stainless steel case and comfortable steel bracelet. The star of the show, however, is the textured salmon-tone dial which brings a touch of warmth to a collection that is otherwise known for its more traditionally finished dials.


Seiko SPB469

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 40.2mm
  • Case Thickness: 13mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Cream
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R5J
  • Power Reserve: 72 hours

Another new Presage reference is the Seiko SPB469, which enjoys a case with the same wearable dimensions as the previously mentioned watch, however, the dial promises to be a constant source of entertainment thanks to its “open-heart” aperture. This window at 9 o’clock offers a look into the ticking mechanical movement, while the dial remains balanced thanks to the 24-hour indicator at 6 o’clock.


Seiko SRPK61

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 12mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: White
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 4R35
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

As one of the more affordable options within the Presage collection, the Seiko SRPK61 is well-loved by collectors and enthusiasts alike thanks to its retro styling that takes inspiration from top Seiko watches of the 1960s. With a solid black bezel that nicely frames the creamy white dial, it’s powered by a solid mechanical movement and arrives paired with a comfortable steel bracelet.


Seiko “Sharp Edges” SPB219 GMT

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.2mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.7mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Green
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R64
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

While the Presage collection is generally focused on dress watches, it boasts several sportier references such as the Seiko SPB219, offering solid water resistance, GMT functionality and a robust steel bracelet. In addition to the GMT complication that’s read against the black 24-hour bezel, the dial also offers a date complication at 6 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, making it a properly functional daily sports watch.


Seiko “Shippo Enamel” SJE079 Dress Watch

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 10.9mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Crocodile leather
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 6L35
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

Similar to the Seiko SJE075 in its case shape and movement, the SJE079 takes the immaculate enamel work to another level. Rather than the simpler white dial, this reference features a rich blue Shippo enamel dial with a rippling texture across its surface that reminds of calm waters.


Seiko SSK011 GMT

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 40.8mm
  • Case Thickness: 13mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Aluminium
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: Champagne
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 4R34
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

Another sportier model within the Presage line-up, the Seiko SSK011 has a function-forward design that works well with the GMT complication it features. While its water resistance means it doesn’t quite qualify as a “go-anywhere, do-anything” timepiece, its perforated leather strap is comfortable on the wrist and its automatic movement is as robust as they come.


Seiko SPB395

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 40.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.8mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: Burgundy
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 6R24
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

The Presage collection is a place where Seiko flexes its dial-making muscles and, in addition to the impressive enamel dials, the range also features a number of references with traditional Japanese Urushi lacquer dials such as this Seiko SPB395.

Originally launched as a member of a limited edition collection celebrating 110 years of Seiko watchmaking, this stunning burgundy and gold dial features both a day and date complication — as well as a power reserve indicator — that are all laid out nicely across the dial.


Seiko “Sharp Edges” SPB167

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.2mm
  • Case Thickness: 11.1mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 6R35
  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

This line-up of Seiko Presage Sharp Edges watches is nicknamed “baby Grand Seiko” thanks to their excellent finishing and attention to detail in the design of their dials. Powered by the impressive 6R35 automatic movement with 70 hours of power reserve, the Seiko SPB167 would be a great addition to any watch collection.


Seiko “Cocktail Time” SRPJ13 Dress Watch

Best Seiko Watches

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 11.7mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: 4R35
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

Sitting within the popular Cocktail Time collection, this Seiko SRPJ13 is designed to be enjoyed after a long day at the office; and a well-made drink resting on the bar in front of you. The case is well-proportioned and offers a dial that has plenty of detail to get excited about — yet another affordable example of Seiko’s value-driven watchmaking.


Astron

Named after the world’s first quartz watch that Seiko debuted in 1969, the Astron collection is unfaltering in its commitment to accuracy. With a range of watches that maintain their timekeeping via connections to the GPS network, the Seiko Astron collection never needs a battery change because it is solar-powered.

The benchmark for set-and-forget watchmaking.

Seiko SSH153

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.3mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.4mm
  • Case Material: Titanium
  • Bezel Material: Ceramic
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Titanium
  • Dial Colour: White and black
  • Water Resistance: 100m
  • Movement: 5X83
  • Power Reserve: 2 years between charges

Solar-powered and hewn from lightweight titanium (with a ceramic bezel), this Seiko SSH153 is about as sophisticated as the best contemporary watches get without being called a smartwatch. Not only does it have a stopwatch, a perpetual calendar (accurate until 2100), and a world timer, but it is also connected to a GPS network that ensures pinpoint timing accuracy no matter where you are in the world.


Vintage

While Seiko has a catalogue of hundreds of compelling watches today, its history is all the more rich and fascinating. Here is a small selection of our favourite vintage Seiko watches from decades past.

Seiko SKX007 Diver – 1996

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 42.5mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.3mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 200m
  • Movement: 7S26
  • Power Reserve: 41 hours

A true legend within the watch world, if the Rolex Submariner is the iconic dive watch, the Seiko SKX007 is its affordable counterpart. The first watch many collectors ever buy, it looks great on a range of different rubber and NATO straps (as well as its original five-link jubilee-style bracelet), is bulletproof in its build quality and wears very nicely on most wrists.

It was a sad day when it was revealed the Seiko Diver was being discontinued in favour of the Seiko 5 collection, but the Seiko SKX007 will remain one of the watch community’s dive watch darlings. While it would cost you less than $300 when it was still in production, prices for the SKX007 have jumped in the years since — expect to pay anywhere between $880 and $1,500 for an example in good condition today.


Seiko Astron, The First-Ever Quartz Watch – 1969

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 36mm
  • Case Thickness: 11mm
  • Case Material: 18ct yellow gold
  • Bezel Material: 18ct yellow gold
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: Gold
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Movement: Calibre 35SQ
  • Power Reserve: 1 year

On Christmas Day in 1969, Seiko changed the face of watchmaking forever with the announcement of the quartz-powered Astron watch. The level of disruption the Japanese watch brand created within the Swiss and German watchmaking industries is hard to comprehend, with many European watchmakers ceasing to exist as they struggled to compete with the Astron and its descendants — accurate to ±5 seconds per month and much more affordable.

While quartz watches would quickly become affordable, the very first Astron arrived with an eye-watering price of 450,000 yen (US$1,250) — about the same price as a Toyota Corolla at that time. Original examples are so rare it’s understood that Seiko produced a copy for the Smithsonian Museum when it requested an example for its collection, and the only examples I’ve seen sold are privately between collectors or locally within Japan. If you find an example, expect to pay at least $15,000 and consider yourself very lucky.


Seiko Automatic – 1956

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 36mm
  • Case Thickness: 11mm
  • Case Material: 14ct gold filled
  • Bezel Material: 14ct gold filled
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Leather
  • Dial Colour: White
  • Water Resistance: N/A
  • Movement: 11A
  • Power Reserve: 36 hours

Another relatively rare and important Seiko from the history books is the very first automatic watch released by the watch manufacturer, launched in 1956 (just three years after Patek Philippe’s first automatic calibre made its debut). Featuring a gold-filled case (similar to gold-plated), its hour markers are brilliantly three-dimensional and it arrived with a power reserve indicator at the 12 o’clock position just above the logo.

Though they’re far from impossible to find, expect to pay between $1,800 and $2,200 for an example kept in reasonably good condition.


Seiko 5 Sports Speed-Timer, The First-Ever Automatic Chronograph – 1969

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 41mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.2mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Steel
  • Dial Colour: Blue
  • Water Resistance: 70m
  • Movement: Caliber 6139
  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

If there’s one thing that watchmakers love to argue about, it’s who was first in the race to invent a new innovation. One such argument that continues to this day is which brand first created the automatic chronograph in 1969: with Heuer’s Caliber 11, Zenith’s El Primero and Seiko’s Caliber 6139 all claiming the accolade. Zenith appears to have announced its movement first (January), while Seiko released its movement to the Japanese market first (May) and Heuer launched to the global market fastest (August).

With the launch of the quartz Astron in the same year, 1969 was a busy one for Seiko as it also launched the Caliber 6139-powered Seiko 5 Sports Speed-Timer automatic chronograph. One of the earliest references is the 6139-6010, with a day and date complication, as well as a 30-minute chronograph counter. While not terribly rare, an example in good condition should set you back around $2,000.


Seiko 150M Diver “62MAS” – 1965

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Case Diameter: 39mm
  • Case Thickness: 13.5mm
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Bezel Material: Steel
  • Bracelet/Strap Material: Rubber
  • Dial Colour: Black
  • Water Resistance: 150m
  • Movement: Caliber 6217
  • Power Reserve: Unknown

Serving as the inspiration for many recent reissues, the original Seiko 150M Diver “62MAS” from 1965 is a legendary timepiece in the history of Seiko dive watches. The original version from 1965 features a small crown and the ref. 6217-8000, which was followed up in the same year by the ref. 6217-8001 with a larger crown, but both versions featured date widows and arrived on waffle-style rubber straps. To add one of these to your collection isn’t going to be an affordable exercise, so you should expect to pay between $6,000 and $8,000.

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Nick Kenyon
WORDS by
Nick Kenyon is the Editor of Boss Hunting, joining the team after working as the Deputy Editor of luxury watch magazine Time+Tide. He has a passion for watches, with other interests across style, sports and more. Get in touch at nick (at) luxity.com.au

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