The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm Is A Study In Smart Subtlety

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm Is A Study In Smart Subtlety

Nick Kenyon
Nick Kenyon



Longines has grown its stock within the watch-collecting community thanks to its reliably compelling heritage releases in recent years, but there’s a brand new collection on the block that has caught the enthusiast’s eye. After its debut in 2022, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time is back with a new 39mm case size and enough precious metal to elevate the watch from an everyday tool to a companion at the pointy end of the plane.

While the original 42mm Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection was already one of the best value line-ups in its pricepoint (and plays an important part in Longines ambitious growth plans), shrinking the case size to 39mm is a move that we love. Watch case size is a matter of personal taste, but for most collectors, the Goldilocks zone is between 38mm-40mm in terms of comfort and wearability and the Longines Spirit Zulu Time move to 39mm is guaranteed to attract more interest.

The collection builds on Longines’ long legacy of creating timepieces for aviators and world travellers, with the brand holding the record for the earliest watches to track multiple time zones at once. The first pocket watch to feature a GMT hand was manufactured by Longines in 1908, but it wasn’t until 1925 that Longines added the function to a wristwatch with a Zulu flag on its dial to represent zero hours from the universally accepted Greenwich Mean Time.

With nearly a century of history behind it, the latest addition to the Longines Spirit Zulu Time range refines the debut collection with a slightly smaller case diameter (which measures just 13.5mm thick) and the addition of a yellow gold bezel, crown and dial furniture in three of the references. Not only does this contrast fantastically against the anthracite dial that is available with the gold hardware, but also adds a touch of warmth to the otherwise understated stainless steel impression.

There are a number of great details that tie the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection together, including the applied Arabic numeral hour markers that give the dial great visual depth, the engraved markers of the ceramic bezel and the date window neatly tucked away at 6 o’clock. The 100m water-resistant case has been carefully considered too, maintaining the proportions of the 42mm references with the same razor-sharp case facets and downward sweeping lugs.

Beneath the dial is the high-spec automatic GMT L844.4 movement, exclusively manufactured for Longines and featuring an antimagnetic silicon balance spring for improved accuracy over time and 72 hours of power reserve. Another important and practical feature of this calibre is its ability to set the hour hand independently of the GMT hand as you arrive in a new timezone, and it’s also COSC certified to a maximum deviation of -4/+6 seconds per day.

Depending on the reference, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection arrives either on a stainless steel bracelet that has been brushed and faceted to match the case, a textile NATO strap or a leather strap. Each strap or bracelet brings a very different feeling to the watch, either dressing it up and making it ideal to pair with a suit and tie, or down for a more adventure-ready profile on the wrist. 

The new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm collection is a great addition to the brand’s range and one that is sure to be a hit within the watch-collecting community. From the gold detailing and new strap options to its more wearable case size, it takes the best elements of the original release and refines the details even further.

The  Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm collection is currently available, with the gold references on a bracelet costing $6,500, and both the leather and NATO strap gold versions arriving with an RRP of $6,325.

This article is sponsored by Longines. Thank you for supporting the brands that support Boss Hunting.

Nick Kenyon
Nick Kenyon is the Editor of Boss Hunting, joining the team after working as the Deputy Editor of luxury watch magazine Time+Tide. He has a passion for watches, with other interests across style, sports and more. Get in touch at nick (at)



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