After three decades of effective dormancy, Universal Genève is finally back.
It was in 2023 that the Breitling parent, Partners Group, acquired it, and ever since, the collecting community has been holding its breath to see what would be released in its long-anticipated revival. Today, we know the answer as Universal Genève makes its triumphant return with the release of more than a couple of dozen fresh references.
If you’ve not heard of Universal Genève before, it was once a darling of the watch industry and one of the most famous victims of the quartz crisis that saw countless Swiss watchmakers fall into obscurity. Since it disappeared from the public eye it’s gained a cult following of interest from both watch collectors and enthusiasts thanks to its line-up of well-made, thoughtfully-designed models.
Now, it’s back for good with an all-new catalogue that hits the highlights and odd-balls with equal enthusiasm, ranging from the legendary Polerouter to the sleeper Disco Volante. Here are three of the best collections.
Universal Genève Polerouter
Kicking things off with what’s arguably Universal Genève’s most famous design (from the one and only Gerald Genta), the Polerouter. In total, there are nine new references split across three sub-collections of three watches, including a trio of date-equipped references that measure 37mm in diameter, three 39mm watches with diamond bezels and no date, and three examples with hardstone dials.
The 39mm versions are the most colourful and trendy of the line-up, but for the purists, the 37mm references with a date are impressively faithful to the originals of the past. For anyone who’s still got an itch for a stone dial, the options include tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, and bull’s eye hardstone, cased in either white or rose gold.
What’s arguably most exciting about all of Universal Genève’s new Polerouter references is the all-new UG-110 calibre powering the collection. The return of the micro-rotor movement maintains the DNA of the original Polerouter movement, and with 72 hours of power reserve, there’s plenty to get excited about.
Prices range from CHF14,000 (~AU$25,150) for the stainless steel reference with a black dial on the leather strap to CHF 65,100 (~AU$116,900) for the tiger’s eye capsule edition with a rose gold case and bracelet.
Universal Genève Compax
For collector’s whove truly studied the lore of Universal Genève, the Compax is arguably the chronograph that defined it as a watchmaker. Famously worn by Nina Rindt in decades past, the collection has returned with five new references that all measure 39.5mm in diameter and 12.45mm in thickness (as well as 100m of water resistance).
The two most appealing references are the black and white dial version in stainless steel and a blue and white example in rose gold, while rounding out the collection are a trio of blue, pink, and green pastel-toned watches that are certainly a more modern interpretation of the design. Powering all five watches is the Universal Genève Manufacture Calibre UG-200, which features automatic winding via a micro-rotor and 72 hours of power reserve.
As far as pricing, the steel reference on a strap is CHF15,500 (~AU$27,800) or CHF17,000 (~AU$30,500) on a bracelet, while the rose gold models are CHF39,900 (~AU$71,600).
Universal Genève Disco Volante & Dioramic Signature
From a design perspective, this collection is my favourite without a doubt, as it perfectly encapsulates the madness of watch design in the 1950s and 60s. We’ve got two different models that are the Disco Volante and the Dioramic Signature, both of which are available in steel and rose gold.
First, looking at the Disco Volante, it arrives with a 45mm case diameter that measures 12.78mm in thickness, with a classically oversized bezel that makes up a lot of that diameter number. The rose gold version is paired with a matching rose gold-tone dial, while the example in steel has a grainy dark blue dial that looks like an absolute treat. Prices are CHF 44,100 (~AU$79,200) for the rose gold version and CHF 25,500 (~AU$45,800) in steel.
The Dioramic Signature is one of my favourite vintage Universal Genève designs, boasting an even larger bezel than its chronograph sibling that frames a modestly proportioned dial within. These newest examples measure 37mm in diameter and follow the same dial/case material colour scheme as the chronographs. Rose gold is priced at CHF 40,425 (~AU$72,600), while the steel costs CHF 20,000 (~AU$35,900).
