Welcome to How I Made It โ a series where accomplished individuals shine a spotlight on the unseen (and sometimes unconventional) journeys to their defining success. For this edition, we spoke to respected homegrown sommelier: Kyle Barton.
Barton rose to prominence as a wine-savvy fixture at Sydneyโs three-hatted Oncore by Clare Smyth, but has since taken his career to the next level as the Head Sommelier at Atlantis, The Palmโs FZN by Bjรถrn Frantzรฉn in Dubai โ the internationally renowned restaurant, which heโs played no small part in helping become a three-Michelin-star establishment.
Read his firsthand vino veritas below.
It didnโt start with Burgundy. It started with Cocktail.
You know, the Tom Cruise flick where he flips those bottles? That, of all things, sparked my interest. And as far as teenage epiphanies go, it wasnโt exactly noble. Though it got me behind the bar.
From a pub on the Gold Coast to some of Sydneyโs finest cocktail dens โ Lobo Plantation, Rockpool Bar & Grill โ the early years were about flair and hustle. I wasnโt thinking of tannins or terroir back then. But somewhere between pouring Negronis and closing out tabs at midnight, the curiosity for more kicked in.
Wine wasnโt just something that rounded out a menu โ it has depth, story. So about four years into my hospitality career, I decided to take it more seriously. It wasnโt an accident. It was a unique transition that felt like the right next step.
I completed my WSET Level 2 and Level 3 certifications while I was still bartending, then it was all stations to the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) โ which taught me about the service and people side of being a sommelier; that itโs about putting your life on hold while you chase a very particular kind of perfection.
You donโt get here without sacrifices.
Reaching the top of my field has definitely meant giving up weekends and personal time; itโs a trade-off Iโve happily made because I genuinely love what I do. Most of my social circle is made up of people in the industry โ just the nature of the hours we work โ but Iโve also built some lifelong friendships through the industry.
And while I was preparing for the Advanced Sommelier CMS exam, life was hectic: I was studying, moving house, travelling to France, then coming back to sit the exam. Each day brought a different challenge.
RELATED: The Investment Banker Who Earned Saigonโs First Michelin Star
After the theory component on that first day, I found myself sitting on the floor of our apartment, convinced I hadnโt done well. The practical test went okay, and on the final day, I was the last person to go into the tasting. I walked out feeling like Iโd done the best I could.
When we went to the graduation ceremony, I was one of the first names called โ Iโd passed with flying colours. It felt like a miracle.
[Editorโs Note: As a frame of reference for how difficult the CMS trials can be, there are more people who have travelled to outer space than there are whoโve successfully become a Master Sommelier, which is the official rank directly above Kyle Bartonโs Advanced Sommelier certification.]As for the โIโve made itโ moment of my career? I donโt think in those terms, Iโm always focused on the next challenge. That being said, Iโd be lying if I said there werenโt highlights.
When FZN by Bjรถrn Frantzรฉn at Atlantis, The Palm won three Michelin stars โ that was an incredible and unforgettable milestone. Being in service that evening with the team was an emotional experience. The occasional sponsored trip to wine regions like Bordeaux. And not to sound like a broken record, but passing the Advanced Sommelier exam was objectively a major moment for me (given the circumstances).
Wine myths? There are plenty. The big one is that the best expressions have to come from a well-known label or with an eye-watering price tag. At FZN, I love nudging guests toward keeping an open mind and exploring the unknown โ lesser-known regions, underdog producers. This is where the soul lives. You can discover amazing hidden gems and unique stories that go far beyond the usual favourites.
And hereโs the question guests should be asking more often: โWhat will I actually enjoy this?โ Forget chasing the perfect pairing โ no single bottle can โperfectlyโ match every course of an extensive tasting menu.
For diners, my insiderโs advice is to simply build some sort of connection with the sommelier and give them the freedom to guide your wine choices. Making it a collaborative experience often leads to more thoughtful pairings you might not have considered, without necessarily going for the most expensive bottle on the list.
For anyone with ambitions to become a sommelier, commit to rigorous study and practice unbiased tasting. Formal education through programs like Court of Master Sommeliers or WSET is essential for building foundational knowledge and industry credibility; tasting a wide variety of wines without prejudice, learning to evaluate them objectively beyond personal preferenceโฆ thatโs equally crucial in this profession.
If I walked away tomorrow, I wouldnโt miss the adrenaline or service hours. What I would miss, however, is the creativity. Crafting unique experiences for guests. Itโs something thatโs always evolving and keeps the job exciting.
Iโd also know Iโll never get those years back. But honestly, I wouldnโt want to. Even if I could do it all again, I wouldnโt change a damn thing. This job has afforded me, a natural introvert, a certain confidence and the ability to connect with people from all walks of life in a dialogue I understand best.
Also read:
